A worthy replacement for a DSLR. Fujifilm X-T10 mirrorless camera test review. FUJIFILM X-T10: the perfect addition to the Nikon 7100 X-series or Fuji x T10

An overview of the Fuji X-T10 system camera or a mirrorless in the hands of an amateur, as well as: "mirrorless versus DSLRs - yes or no?"

All funny nonsense is exclusively a lynx,

and based on the subjective experience of filming

on DSLR and mirrorless cameras.

If you answer the main question of the life of the universe and in general briefly and immediately - it all strongly depends on the requirements. In a considerable number of cases, the X-T10 / X-T1 is a very good replacement for an amateur DSLR (that's it, you don't have to read any further;)).

The exceptions, it seems to me, are:

• professional reportage and its most complex types (just do not confuse it with “reporter shooting” from pop concerts, performances of a children's sports school and club photos);
• artistic and fashion photography with high detail and shallow depth of field (if you have money for medium format and optics for it, as well as understanding why you need it, then this article is not for you at all)
• Carrying a “cool cool DSLR” to impress customers and generally the feeling of working with “serious equipment” (yes, the ergonomics of mirrorless cameras are peculiar, and the look often “does not inspire confidence in“ serious people ”).

Most of the performance characteristics (matrices, dimensions, weight, etc.) can be viewed on the Internet, read the praises of the “original fuji matrix with a non-Bayer filter” (with which lightroom still works buggy, by the way) and learned phrases about “now you don’t need to wear a lot , and shoot for your own pleasure. "
Let's focus on the honest-subjective.

Focusing

The most asked and controversial topic. The X-T10 has hybrid focusing - contrast throughout the entire field of the frame, plus phase focusing along the central part of the frame, the coverage area of ​​the phase sensors is approximately comparable to those of. When the focus points are selected, the hybrid points are illuminated slightly brighter than the others. Focusing is fast, although it depends heavily on the lens, as always.

It is said that in cramped light conditions, the camera completely switches to contrast focusing, disabling the phase sensors. True or not, I don't know.

A very convenient option is to move around the frame not only one focus point, but also the “focus area” by several points, with adjustable size and proportions. A similar function (only without quick adjustment of the area) exists in professional DSLRs (for Nikon - starting with).

Usually, in mirrorless cameras, the joystick is configured like a “soap dish” - some action is assigned to each button: changing iso / white balance / modes / focusing points selection. In the X-T10, in addition to this mode, you can turn on the "mode like a DSLR" - that is, four joystick buttons are immediately responsible for moving the focus point / area. And assign the desired adjustable parameters to the user settings screen - “Q”:

Focus modes M / S / C? There is. Switched with a lever to the right of the mount. Classic.

Focusing with object tracking across the frame (what Nikon calls 3D focusing)? There is. Although, it strongly depends on the settings and contrast of the objects.

Face-based focusing? There is. In combination with the previous point, it is very convenient to shoot children at play. And the ability to choose focusing according to the eyes, moreover, to choose from - on the left or right eye ...

Are the speed and focusing speed sufficient for amateur photography and general reportage? Definitely yes. At least, the focusing speed is not inferior (and sometimes exceeds in accuracy in dark conditions) the speed of my old s5pro, d90, d7000 and 3xxx / 5xxx series. Perhaps it may not be enough for professional reporting, but how many of those reading this are filming the Olympic Games?

A couple of subtleties:

1. When shooting with continuous AF, the shutter mode must be “mechanical”. If the “electronic” or “electronic / mechanic” modes are selected, the focusing in the series will be performed on the first frame.
2. There is such a very useful option as increasing the frame at the focus point by pressing the rear command dial (it also works when viewing the footage, by the way). Relevant for both manual and automatic focusing modes. Alas, but it works only when focusing "one point".

Ergonomics

I want to warn you about one thing right away important moment in the ergonomics of mirrorless cameras in general and “dozens” in particular. Unlike DSLRs, these are more like “left hand cameras”.
That is, it is easy to carry the camera “ on the fingertips of the right hand " you are unlikely to succeed - your fingers will cramp, especially with a massive lens. The only exceptions are the configurations with “kito”, and 18 and 27 mm “pancakes”. And this is the very feeling that the use of professional mirrors gives: “the camera is like an extension of the hand!” - will also be absent.

Despite some "oblique" models of the X-T series "for DSLRs" - all these stops are under thumb, a ledge on the pediment and other tricks, the principle of wearing system cameras is noticeably different from the CZK. The first time you have to relearn.

An additional battle block / grip can partially correct the situation (at the same time making the camera more massive), bringing the ergonomics closer to the "mirror" one, but alas, for the X-T10 it is not provided even for the Chinese.
If you just do it yourself. ;)
From my current point of view, a Chinese leather sheath is quite enough. People with prosperity and desire can buy the original case and additional grip from Fuji. Today it is about 4500 rubles for each point.

For those who have spent a lot of time shooting with film SLRs and rangefinders (or had experience working with puppies;)), they will only have to remember old skills.

So, the X-T10 is held in the left hand. Just like the old zenith (or puppy): the thumb and forefinger form a “fork” for gripping and holding the lens, while the palm and the rest of the fingers hold the camera from below. It is comfortable, practical, leaves the right hand free, and protects the camera.
Yes, if you want to shoot with the camera stretched out and only holding it in your right hand - this trick is quite possible. However, with many lenses it will be difficult. Carrying in the left hand is much more convenient.

The complete neck strap, like most cameras, is hard. But high quality. True quality. And without the huge inscription “HEY PASSANS - HERE IS A DUDE WITH A MAGNIFICENT CAMERA!”. So you can take a little time to knead it and get it fit.

In general, Fuji and Olympus mirrorless cameras, with their ergonomics, dictate a slightly different shooting style than CZK. But the article “the influence of the type of camera on the psychological aspects of artistic creation”We will consider another time.

All buttons (with the exception of the video recording button) are convenient and accessible, easily found blindly, pressed with good response, but without excessive stiffness.

The control wheels (both front and rear), in addition to rotation, can be pressed like buttons. On the front, you can select the action, the back, by pressing, enlarges the focusing area to fill the screen.

Turning on the camera - with a rotary lever around the shutter button, everything is like in Nikon.

The exposure control and modes of all Fuji mirrorless cameras are implemented as in film cameras: aperture is set on the lens, and exposure compensation is set on the camera body. True, for several inexpensive lenses that do not have an aperture ring, the aperture ring is set using the control wheels, as in Nikon.
Both the diaphragm and the extreme positions have the “A” position - auto. By putting them in position “A” in different combinations, we get modes M, A, S and P. Everything is simple and convenient.

In case you need to hand the camera into the hands of someone who is not familiar with the intricacies of shooting, there is an “auto” lever under the shutter speed dial, which switches the camera into “green” mode with tracking autofocus.

By the way, the mode is quite hysterical - for some reason it has a constant, non-disconnectable, tracking autofocus, so the lens constantly buzzes and fidgets. As it turned out, unprepared people are unnerved by this, as if they were given a small nimble animal in their hands.

On the left, on the top panel, there is a drive mode dial (single frame, fast and slow burst), two types of bracketing (by ISO, types of film, etc. Configured in the menu), two types of filters (about them below), as well as panoramic shooting and. The latter is very conveniently implemented - after shooting the first frame, it is superimposed on the screen with a translucent background, so that you can see the combination of images.

Viewfinder and screen

The screen is typical for the present time, just over three inches, with good color reproduction and angles. I recommend sticking a matte protective film or glass - it will be much more convenient to work under the bright sun. Folds back with the help of the protrusions on the left (they cling well with the nail of the index finger), down 45 and up 90 degrees.
Viewfinder… I've seen different viewfinders, both in old Fuji models, in sony-nex babies and in new Olympus. To be honest - this one is the best! Both in colors and in detail. Subjectively, it is only slightly smaller than the viewfinder of a full-frame DSLR, but larger than on the crop, especially the “younger” one.

The viewfinder and screen can be switched using the proximity sensor and have 4 modes:

• Only the screen works (always)
• Viewfinder only works (always)
• The screen works, but when brought to the eye (about 5-7 cm), it switches to the viewfinder
• Only the viewfinder works, but it turns on only when it is brought to the eye.

The “sleep” button is badly lacking, as it is, for example, implemented in modern cell phones - flipping the switch every time is tiresome.

Also, I would very much like the mode “in the viewfinder - the image, on the screen - only the settings and the quick menu of the user”.

As it should be with mirrorless cameras that are not connected by technical parameters - both the screen and the viewfinder can display a lot, a lot of any additional information, starting with ISO / shutter speed / aperture and ending with the virtual horizon and three types of manual focusing assistance.
The main advantage (and screen) of Fuji was the ability to display the space with the settings already selected.

For example, if you are shooting in manual mode and you twist the shutter speed and aperture too much, the camera will show you an almost black screen. Or strongly overexposed, depending on the parameters.

And using the exposure compensation wheel (located on the top of the camera, on the right), you can easily select the lighting of the frame, for example, when shooting an evening city - from light twilight to deep night with lights.

Menu

Everything is simple, convenient, concise, with a bunch of possible fine-tuning "for yourself".
The menu logic is closest to Nikon's - a vertical column of squares a1-a5 / s1-s3 to the left and pop-up menus from it. In the Russian version, you sometimes have to peep into the instructions what these or those abbreviations mean. But in general, everything is clear.

Lenses

The first and foremost thing about Fuji system lenses is that almost all of them are tops. Yes, that's right, there are practically no “cheap and compromise” glasses in fujiks, with the exception of the 27 mm fixer and several “whales” of standard focal lenses (16-50 and 55-200). And even in this case, the simplest 16-55 / 3.5-5.6 produces a very, very good picture.
Most of the fixes are f / 1.4, some are f / 2, zooms are from f / 2.8. The construction is almost always all-metal, without any rubber bands and plastic.
For any of the fuji lenses, we can say: "Matsash in hands, sweep - a thing!"
The advantage of this approach is the fact that you really want to shoot with any of the lenses without bothering. The downside is the price. Who wants to be horrified by modern prices - welcome to the Yandex market.

A feature of fuji lenses are electronic control rings - the transmission of zoom, aperture and focusing parameters is not mechanical, but electronic. On the one hand, it allows you to make smooth adjustments when shooting video, as well as full dust and moisture resistance of the lens. On the other hand, you will also have to get used to this, the reaction of the lenses is not as unambiguous as with mechanical control.

But there is a fairly large stroke of the focusing ring, about two turns from the MDF to infinity, which gives great opportunities when shooting.

I happened to shoot with 4 Fujifilm lenses:

Batteries

Yes, they do not last long - from 300 to 600 frames (someone mentioned 1000), depending on the mode of use, and you need to monitor / turn off the camera so that it does not eat too much (although there is a sleep timer). Yes, it's best to always have a spare with you. Yes, it is better to take the original, and not China (which are at least a third less capacious, and in general can glitch or burn out at any time. Yes, this is not cheap - the original now costs about 1.6-2.5 thousand (although you can manage to take it in within a thousand with all sorts of discounts).
Battery charging time is about an hour and a half in a situation "Oh, I ought to charge!" and about two in a state "Well, everyone, we have arrived".

About color and light

Canonists, judging by the reviews on the forum, do not notice any losses in the dynamic range when switching to fujik. In flowers - they are very happy.
Nikonists, especially those with multi-pixel cameras (D610 / D7100), may find the dynamic range in jeepgs to be too small for highly contrasting scenes. But the raves are practically the same "stringy" as those of Nikon, and the colors and skin tone are undoubtedly better.

An example is a jeep without treatment, a jeep with extended shadows at +100 in lightrum, and a rav with extended shadows at +100 in lightroom:

Personally, after the “soak”, with its huge DD in jeepgs, I had to remember about raves and master Capture One, but the colors did not disappoint.

Flash handling

Fuji flashes are a bit complicated and a bit simple.

Difficult - because the system is new, and the models of third-party manufacturers of TTL-flashes for them - the cat cried, now there is only Meike-320 - a small two-battery, but quite successful model and Nissin-40i - a classic model with a rotary head, although the dimensions are slightly smaller than usual ...

Simply - because there are only three “native” flashes, you will not get confused:

EF-X20 with case:

Remote Flash Control for X-T10:

1. for EF-X20 - by “ignition” from the built-in flash, in manual mode. At the same time, the bottom of the flash has a switch for TTL-mode, manual tracking, and “P” tracking mode, which apparently allows the flash not to react to “red-eye preflashes”. Well, studio / manual flashes are naturally also “ignited”.
2. By sync cable, by hot shoe. They say that cables from the Canon system are suitable, but the arrangement of the contacts on the shoe is somewhat different from the Canon ones. Nikon's TTL cable doesn't fit exactly. Perhaps the so-called. A “universal TTL cable” would be the best solution in this situation.
3. Radio synchronizers via hot shoe. Any for manual modes, or possibly E-TTL for Canon system (info unverified).

Fuji EF-X20 and China Studio Flash:

A little trick to help you avoid worrying about the non-rotatable flash:

With a forehead flash:

And with a piece of foil reflector:

As a means of holding foil paper, in ascending order of effectiveness: fingers, rubber band for money, magnetic stripe (purchased from an advanced printer store or from a magnet manufacturer)

For built-in flash in the X-T10, in the menu, there are only 4 modes of operation:

• “Forced” is a simple TTL mode. Before operating, the flash must be raised with the lever on the left of the top panel.
• Slow sync.
• 2 curtain sync - read "rear curtain"
• Commander. ... Alas, Fuj has nothing like Nikon's CLS, in this mode the flash works with a minimum power, sufficient only for ignition.
• Disabled flash. Why this item is needed, as well as the first one - I am lost in conjecture (after all, the flash fires only if it is raised), most likely the menu is as unified as possible with other models of cameras, and these items are intended for cameras with non-liftable flashes - to disable / enable them in this way. However, when this menu item is selected, the raised flash will not fire.

Additional built-in flash settings:

• Flash exposure compensation +2 0 -2, in 1/3 increments.
• Enabling disabling the “remove red eyes” mode. Moreover, it was implemented not by pre-flashes, as usual, but at the software level - the automatic detects the face and “blackens the pupils”.
• There is no manual mode.

Since the viewfinder (and the screen) shows the picture in accordance with the selected exposure pair and exposure compensation, allowing you to select shooting parameters in real time, for working with flashes and in the studio, in the “screen” menu there is a mode “viewing in manual mode - on / off ”. When you turn it off, the screen starts to work as usual. This function can be assigned to the function keys “Fn”, but it cannot be assigned to the Custom Menu “Q”.

Wifi

Wireless communication in the X-T10 has four functions:

1. Work with tablets and smartphones. Android and Ios.
2. Autosave to computer.
3. Geotagging photos from GPS smartphones.
4. Intax wireless wearable printer.

Work with tablets and smartphones.

Everything is very simple and fast. There is an application in the application database (googleplay and applestory). It is downloaded, installed, configured, and now, every time you turn on Wi-Fi in your smartphone and fujik, and confirm the connection in the camera, you get 4 functions:

• Copying / receiving (not moving!) Selected photos to a smartphone (moreover, the camera has the function “transfer a compressed file”) In this mode, you need to select which photos to transfer and which not to transfer on the camera screen.
• View camera memory. The same as the previous point, only in this case all copying and selection control takes place from the smartphone screen. Basically, it is a choice “what to put back in your pocket - a camera or a smartphone?”.
• Shooting control - aiming, shutter release, changing shooting parameters - ISO, flash mode, timer, photo or video recording, correction, etc.
• Geotagging - transferring the coordinates of the current location to the camera when shooting.

The connection is almost instantaneous. When working with a camera, working with the Internet via Wi-Fi on the smartphone is automatically blocked.
Among the shortcomings - every time after executing a menu item, when returning to the selection of items, you have to reconnect.
This function can be assigned to one of the function buttons “Fn”

Autosave to PC

A special autosave program is downloaded from the Fuji website (versions for Win and Ios), and, upon installation, is assigned to startup, in standby mode. At the same time, on the camera, you need to set up a network connection (name / password or several other methods) - through a home wifi router or access point. The network settings are then saved in the camera's memory. Up to six wifi- networks can be stored.
For autosave, you need to go to the photo view mode, and select the item “autosave to pc” there. It takes about 20-30 seconds to connect and authorize in the autosave program, and another half a minute to check and copy 10-20 jpg files.
Unfortunately, you cannot assign autosave to either the function keys or the custom menu.

Geotagging photos from GPS smartphones

Everything is simple here - you turn on the GPS on your smartphone, run the same connection program, and it transmits the marks for recording in any freshly shot frame. At the same time it displays on the screen an icon “landmarks received”. For some reason, it is indicated that “continuous operation time - 1 hour”.

Instax SHARE SP-1 Wireless Wearable Printer

Photo - honestly stolen from the official website of the manufacturer.

This is a very funny idea from Fujifilm, based on their modern Instax Polaroid cameras. It is a printed block from a similar camera with a projector screen inside, a wi-fi module and powered by a pair of batteries.
Dimensions: 101.6 mm x 42 mm x 122.5 mm, weight: 253 g (without battery and film), hangs with a clip on the belt.
The price is about 8-9 thousand rubles for January 2015.
The pictures are 46 * 62 mm in size, plus a white frame like a Polaroid.
It feeds on cassettes from Fujifilm "a la Polaroid", for 10 pictures (type "mini"), at a price of 4-5 hundred rubles each.
Whoever has read this far is already well done!
Basically, this amusement is needed for all sorts of parties, and for paid photo sessions, when in half a minute, during the shooting process, you can make several “photos for a purse” - a pleasant surprise for the customer. Well, or you can make a concept exhibition.

Other

Film profiles and emulation work

The camera has a half-dozen preset color profiles, mainly imitating certain types of film, including the legendary kodak chrome and classic sepia. And it shows them immediately in the viewfinder when shooting. And also - 7 options for user settings (in which film profiles are just one of the adjustable parameters). Any of these can be switched through the quick menu or by assigned function keys, by the combination “pressed the button-turned the wheel / clicked the joystick”. The fun options that can be assigned to the left tower are black and white with only one color tolerance - red, yellow, blue, green, and orange.

Memory cards

One of the differences x-t10 from x-t1 is. In the X-T10, it is limited to about 8-10 frames, and after that the camera thinks about recording to a USB flash drive. In many forums, it is recommended (and I agree) to spend on a high-speed card, with a speed of at least 80-95 Mbps. The recording lag drops significantly - at a slow serial speed, the card does not overflow at all, at a fast speed it starts to slow down after the tenth or twelfth frame.
No, some inexpensive card, like the Transcend class 10, is not fast and slows down a lot. The recording speed must be indicated on the card (or in the description). Some kind of SanDisk Extreme Pro SDHC 16 GB (or better 32) is good enough.

The most “continuous-rapid-fire” option is the “jeep-normal” option with the minimum file size and all enhancements disabled - about 20 frames (2.5 seconds) of continuous shooting without slowing down the speed.

True, all of the above applies to the jpg format, in raw - a camera with a fast card slows down the shooting speed somewhere after the tenth frame in a slow burst and after the sixth or seventh in a fast burst (but does not stop shooting!).

Third party lenses

Almost any can be installed through the appropriate adapters. The most common adapters for M42, M39, Nikon and Canon. Alas, for autofocus glasses, the automatic diaphragm (and even more so the focusing or zoom drive) will not work. Of particular interest is the possibility of using interesting rangefinder glasses.

Fujifilm X-T10 and Jupiter-37MS (via Fuji-M42 adapter)

Lens Caps

Uncomfortable, and slip out of your fingers. Classic "a la nikon" is much more practical. But it's easier to put a good one and forget about the covers.

Suggestions to Fujifilm developers:

1. menu item “viewing in manual mode - on / off”. - very much needed in the “custom Q menu”.
2. the function “connect to tablet” and “autosave” need to be added to “custom Q screen”
3. I really need a "sleep" button under duress, or at least setting the sleep timing in the menu, not only for 2 and 5 minutes - they are too long.
4. Also, I would very much like the mode “in the viewfinder - the image, on the screen - only the settings, and the quick menu of the user”. - as it is already implemented with the mode of viewing pictures. And then, setting the “viewfinder only” mode, it is impossible to adjust the shooting parameters on the screen, and to shoot - only through the viewfinder, as on DSLRs.
5. On the button / command “turn on wi-fi” you need to make a choice - they will connect to a tablet or computer / other networks (and not scatter it into two commands in two different menus), otherwise you have to climb each menu to turn on autosave in order to throw off a pair -three photo. Well, it connects for a long time, unfortunately. Maybe what kind of usb-wifi-device to release so that it can be plugged into the computer - and it immediately connects the camera, with the same program as in smartphones?

Price and consistency

Alas and ah, the option “I'll go to a mirrorless camera, everything is cheaper and better there” is a myth.
If you completely switch to a mirrorless system, with native lenses, automation and convenience, you will have to spend money.

I'll make a reservation right away - yes, there are inexpensive solutions for a narrow range of tasks.

For example, for “purely manual work with high-quality color” there is a very suitable and relatively inexpensive fuji X-m1 on the secondary market. For 12-17 thousand, subject to the purchase of a used one, you get a tiny pocket crop-1.5, with a proprietary matrix, a set of adapters for the main systems (M42, M39, watering can, Nikon), a manual focusing system, Wi-Fi and a folding screen ... If you add your own “whale” 16-50 / 3.5-5.6 for 10,000 rubles - you have a device for creative, studio shooting and family holidays.

For street photography, the pocket and inexpensive Sony nex 5, 6, 7 versions, or A5100 are quite suitable. With pancake or whale. Or Olympus pen-series (starting with five).

Actually, a mirrorless inexpensive (at the price of a junior DSLR) system for “Film the family and put the camera back in your pocket”, these are non-top small models of Olympus / Sony / Fuji / Panasonic - without a viewfinder, with a rotating screen and a whale / pancake included (in the case of Olympus, a whale-pancake).

But! If you assemble a universal system with an optimal set of functions, good focusing and automatic lenses, forget about the savings in relation to DSLRs.

Let me give you a concrete example.
To switch to Fuji, I had to sell:

• (mileage 83 thousand, 3 battery batblock);
• - 16,000 rubles;
• Battery WP-126, native to Fuj, with a 2-year warranty, price 1630 in the store, minus ~ 300 points with the "points" system from Sberbank, and minus 300 rubles for a review of a purchase in a connected camera. total - 1000 rubles in fact.
• Flash (I would like a couple) EF-X20 (9000 at the price tag in a connected) + 2 sets of eneloop AAA batteries (1000 rubles / set) + SanDisk Extreme Pro SDHC card 16 GB (1600 rubles). This whole set costs 12,600 rubles, but - minus gift points from Fuji for the winter campaign, minus points from “Svyaznoy” from buying a camera, minus points for paying with a card - we get something about 8,000 rubles.
• With ebey adapters for M42, M39, Nikon ~ 1400 rubles.
• - 1000 rubles in the commission.

Total ~ approximately the same 71-72 thousand rubles.

Not to say cheap, right? And this despite the fact that recently Fuji has raised prices for carcasses and optics.
However, it can be noted that these are new prices for new, and quality enough for their prices, products.

Why exactly x-t10, and not xt-1, x-e2, or the new Olympus or Sony?

With dormouse everything is simple - I do not like them. No view, no ergonomics, no picture.
The Olympus is more complicated, the new OMD E10 Mark 2 and OMD E5 Mark 2 are the most convenient small cameras that I have ever held in my hands. Really - they directly flow into the hand and everything is convenient everywhere and does not shake anywhere. And there is a huge selection of lenses. And the viewfinder is good (although I liked the fujik much more). And branded Olympic beautiful colors. Stabilizer in the matrix. Fastest autofocus. Everything, literally everything is good!
Except for one “but”. Because of the crop-2, the Olympuses have the most boring picture, as flat as a children's folding book-with-a lock. There are absolutely no volumes. Even with good chiaroscuro. Even on top fixes. Alas. I didn't like it at all.
fuji X-E2 - there is no rotary screen and ergonomics are a little disliked.

Fuji X-M1 is one of the most successful fuji mirrorless cameras, relatively inexpensive, but alas, there is no viewfinder and hybrid autofocus, although as a second, pocket camera is quite good. An acquaintance of mine in St. Petersburg specially took it to work with manual lenses in the studio.

fuji X-T1 with the release of X-Pro 2 has lost its top status, losing to the new model in all respects, except for the price (not much) and the presence of a rotary screen. At the same time, the X-T10 outperforms the former flagship in its smaller dimensions and weight, having the same matrix and focusing system, as well as at a much lower price (about 20 thousand rubles), yielding only to the lack of weather protection, a little in the buffer and the size of the viewfinder, and having lost a few beautiful, but not critically necessary "twists" on the body.

Why mirrorless?

That is why:

By the way. A very big plus of such a system is that people, even unfamiliar ones, are not at all afraid of you, do not shy away like “from a big black camera”. This allows you to quite calmly shoot everyday scenes and other reportage interesting things.
Well, and one more thing. They really want to shoot.

30.05.2015 10161 Tests and reviews 0

Fujifilm's X-series camera lineup expands new model X-T10, which is a more compact and affordable version of the mirrorless X-T1, but no less interesting. The X-T10 camera is similar in many ways to the X-T1, but if you put them side by side and take a closer look, you will notice a number of differences.

The X-T10 is compact and made of durable magnesium alloy. Controls - stylish corrugated aluminum dials for shutter speed adjustment, exposure compensation and shooting mode selection; there are also seven functionally customizable buttons. However, the camera retained the sharp and angular edges of the X-T1. As for the differences between the X-T10 and X-T1 in terms of weight and dimensions, the new product is 8 mm thinner and 5 mm shorter than its predecessor, and also weighs 13% less (380 g compared to 490 g of the X-T1). It also features a less protruding grip on the front. Unfortunately, the X-T10 does not inherit water and dust resistance from the X-T1, nor does it inherit a wide range of accessories, including a vertical grip. However, this is not surprising, given the focus of the product.

One of the main features of the novelty is the fully automatic mode, which can be activated in one switch. It is intended for less literate photographers who are the main target audience this "mirrorless". The dedicated ISO selector from the X-T1 to the X-T10 has been replaced by the shooting mode selector. The novelty also includes a new ejectable flash built into the ledge under the viewfinder, but the guide number is small and is 7 meters at ISO 200. A spring-loaded lever on the left serves to activate the flash, its brightness is automatically adjusted, which saves battery power.

The novelty is equipped with a tilting 3-inch LCD display with a resolution of 920,000 dots on the rear panel. It supports Preview Pic Effect, a mode that displays natural images. It is equally convenient to use the screen to shoot with the camera on the ground or overhead. The memory card is housed under the same cover as the battery. The tripod mount is awkward. It is too close to the battery door. This makes it impossible to change the battery or memory card while the camera is on a tripod. Hidden behind the door on the left are connectors for a microphone, HDMI and USB.

The EVF uses a 2.36 million-dot OLED panel, just like the X-T1, which features Organic EL technology for enhanced clarity and contrast. The brightness of the image in it is automatically adjusted. The built-in gyroscope measures the orientation of the image in the viewfinder depending on the position of the camera; Note that this is not possible in cameras with an optical viewfinder. It is worth noting that the outstanding viewfinder with x0.77 magnification (the largest among digital cameras) was one of the most important elements of the X-T1; The X-T10's viewfinder is good too, but falls slightly short of the X-T1's due to its smaller size and lower magnification ratio. The viewfinder itself has a proximity sensor to activate when a person starts to use it.

The heart of the Fujifilm X-T10 is a 16.3MP X-TransTM CMOS II sensor with built-in phase detection autofocusing with both single point and 49-point focusing. According to the manufacturer, this solution improves the results of shooting moving objects. In addition, the camera allows you to shoot in bursts of up to 8 frames per second. The matrix uses a color filter with an irregular structure. It minimizes color distortion and moiré without the use of a low-pass optical filter, allowing an increase in the amount of light entering the matrix. Thus, the image quality of the X-T10 should be on par with the more expensive X-T1.

The sensor is complemented by a powerful EXR II processor. Noise reduction is performed at the processor level, resulting in sharper images with deep blacks, even at high ISO levels. The Fujifilm X-T10 has an ISO value of up to 51200. In addition, the model features a Light Modulation Optimization (LMO) system to correct diffraction and other distortions, with a delay between shutter releases of up to 0.05 s, and between frames - 0.5 s ... The electronic shutter works silently.

The 77-point AF system can be used in single-point or wide / continuous mode with 3 × 3, 3 × 5, or 5 × 5 zones as selected by the photographer. The shutter speed range is from 1/4000 to 30 s. Fujifilm X-T10 can shoot Full HD video at up to 60fps; in this case, Film Simulation modes are also supported, and you can adjust exposure, aperture, shutter speed, sensitivity and focus (manually or automatically). The camera has a built-in Wi-Fi module supporting 802.11b / g / n standards, which provides data transfer at speeds up to 36 Mbps and shooting control from a smartphone or tablet connected to Fujifilm X-T10. The X-T10 can take 350 shots without recharging the battery, which is the same as the X-T1.

Among the useful functions of the Fujifilm X-T10, we note Auto Macro - automatic switching of the camera to macro mode while maintaining the autofocus speed. Multiple exposure capabilities are supported, which allows you to combine two objects in one photo, for example, add people to the picture, Focus Peaking (digital image separation for precise manual focusing and emphasis on the center of focus) and time-lapse photography. The "trick" of the model is the effects that imitate the shades of traditional Fujifilm films, and artistic filters.

Conclusions:

What do we have in the bottom line? The X-T10 does not inherit dust and moisture protection from the X-T1, while the new product offers 90% of the capabilities of the flagship X-T1 for 60% of its cost. It is worth noting the powerful tracking autofocus, similar to Nikon's 3D tracking and Sony A6000 autofocus. The camera is aimed at entry to intermediate users.

Technical Fujifilm specifications X-T10

and lens
Fujinon XF18-55mm F2.8-4 R LM OIS

To begin with, a year and a half ago, the main criticism of Fujifilm system (mirrorless) cameras boiled down to three main points:

• they do not have a flip-down screen;
• autofocus in video mode sometimes starts to get very buggy;
• RAW quality is very poor.

There is such a property of complex systems, which is now appreciated even by the humanities: a complex system is strong not in that it does not make mistakes, but in how quickly and adequately it reacts to them. After the release of the current flagship Fujifilm X-T1 last April, it became clear that Fujifilm is sensible about its achievements and its failures. Strong links strengthens or changes slightly, and weak links change noticeably. And he does it well.

The copy of Fujifilm X-T1, which came to us for testing (see the video test in the article "Fujifilm X-T1 Mirrorless Camera" suffered only from unstable autofocus operation. A folding screen appeared on the camera, the RAW quality was raised to a decent level. Last year (after our test) a firmware was released, in which, in addition to enhancing many characteristics, a redesigned autofocusing algorithm appeared. So, in theory, we need to conduct another Fujifilm X-T1 test - to check how much the camera has changed, how quickly and began to focus precisely.

But more on that later. Fujifilm system mirrorless cameras released this year - Fujifilm X-A2 and X-T10 - have already visited our laboratory. And if we know about the changes in the flagship's firmware by hearsay, then about Fujifilm X-A2 and X-T10 we can say for sure: the work on the errors was done at a very high level.

We can now move on to the Fujifilm X-T10 benchmark and walk through all the strengths and weaknesses of this camera step by step. By the way, it can be called a "sub-flagship" or "second flagship" or, a little longer, "almost as cool camera as the flagship, but with some simplifications and some changes, not so expensive, designed for a wider audience."

* In brackets - in extended mode, without the ability to shoot in RAW.

** Including weight of battery and memory card.

Let's take a look at the comparison chart and note that:

• The Fujifilm X-T10 price is almost 40% lower than that of the X-T1 (prices will probably change, but the proportion, I think, will remain).
• But at the same time, the camera has lost its protection from dust, splashes and frost.
• But Fujifilm X-T10 retained the X-Trans CMOS II matrix, magnesium alloy body, EXR Processor II, burst speed and maximum video shooting parameters.
• The Fujifilm X-T10 has a slightly lower resolution than the X-T1. The viewfinder is the same resolution, but slightly smaller and slightly lower magnification.
• The X-T10 can be considered the first Fujifilm mirrorless camera to feature an electronic shutter. But at the time of its launch on the market, the electronic shutter also appeared in the already produced Fujifilm X-T1 and X100T models.

Of course, you should pay attention to the weight and dimensions, but I think in general terms it is clear how the Fujifilm X-T10 differs from the Fujifilm X-T1 flagship. Let's now take a closer look at the characteristics of the test heroine in detail:

As you can see, many of the characteristics of the Fujifilm X-T10 are no worse than those of the much more expensive Fujifilm X-T1. But for some, quite important (body protection, viewfinder size, screen resolution) Fujifilm X-T10 is inferior to the flagship. But she has a built-in flash and SP + mode (extended auto scene recognition) instead of the usual "auto".

Construction, design, management

When Anton Soloviev analyzed, he called for help from Japanese philosophy. When analyzing the Fujifilm X-T10, one could probably also invoke her philosophy. But for me this is a difficult task. The only thing I can say without any lofty thought:

• Fujifilm continues to refine its form style... Its presence and its merits are difficult to deny. At the same time, Fuji's dissimilarity to the "classics" (that is, to the features of Canon and Nikon technology) is, perhaps, stronger than that of other manufacturers (Pentax, Olympus, Panasonic).
• In part, when creating new cameras, Fujifilm continues to recall the days of film. The X-T10's resemblance to the legendary Fujica is hard to miss, and half of the Picture Style controls are digital imitation of Fujifilm films.
• For me personally, the X-T10 was the first camera with which I felt how great it was to shoot with an electronic viewfinder. I could have felt it earlier, colleagues told me about the awesome Olympus OM-D E-1 viewfinder. But, apparently, it took a lot of time for the eye to accept and appreciate the electronic picture. During the X-T10 test, I mainly used the viewfinder. It is clear that these are my personal habits and "cockroaches", but the class of the X-T10 viewfinder does not become lower because of this.
• We'll have to confess right away that we haven't really tested the electronic shutter. Its advantages and disadvantages require a separate test, you still need to think about how to catch them. Therefore, in this article we will not say anything about an interesting new product. Then, when the next electronic shutter cameras arrive, we'll be better prepared. In the meantime, we can note one of its unconditional merit - the ability to shoot completely silently.

Let's summarize the visual inspection:

• The camera is very convenient in shooting, although its control is very different from the "classics" Canon and Nikon. Or rather, the X-T10 demonstrates the development of Fujifilm's proprietary management approach. It causes some bewilderment when you first come across the cameras of this company, but you quickly get used to it, it is as convenient as the "classic", and is in no way inferior to it.
• Some of the controls are great. These are the flash release and automatic mode control levers, and the ability to quickly select the scene program in automatic mode. The program shift is very convenient, offering in program mode an automatic reduction of the aperture with increasing shutter speed and vice versa.
• The camera screen is good, you won’t say anything. And the viewfinder is great. This is my first test of how easy it is to shoot with an electronic viewfinder. Although it could have been earlier - for example, in the Olympus OM-D E-1 test. The opportunity to see the result of the shooting without looking up from the "peephole" is wonderful.

Now we turn to the internal inspection, each screenshot can be enlarged (clicked on it) or you can simply stop the cursor on it and wait for a hint - what exactly it demonstrates:

As you can see, the Fujifilm X-T10 has quite a few interesting features and settings. They come in addition to a very good basis - the ability to quickly and easily shoot. In particular, the ability to quickly switch to automatic mode with a ready set plot programs... And yet - quickly correct the program mode; here we have an exposure compensation dial and a program shift. And also - comfortable shooting in creative modes, where two control wheels and several programmable buttons allow you to quickly change shooting parameters. We've already talked about the electronic viewfinder ... in short, the Fujifilm X-T10 is quite difficult to find fault with, the above mentioned drawbacks seem to be very minor.

1 - sold only as a kit with a 16-50 lens. A separate "carcass" is rare, it is unreasonably expensive.

2 - extended ISO range.

3 - extended ISO range, no RAW capability.

4 N / D - no data.

As you can see, on the site without SLR cameras costing about 40 thousand rubles is quite crowded. Each manufacturer is trying to somehow stand out from the general background. Or offer an AMOLED screen, sacrifice a viewfinder, but raise the video resolution to 4K (Samsung NX500). Or raise the rate of fire to 11 fps (Sony Alpha ILCE-6000). Or provide high stabilization performance (Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II). With this variety, the general level that advanced system cameras have reached, and the heroine of our test, quite corresponds to this level, looms. It offers a well-balanced set of characteristics.

Image quality - resolution and noise

However, the official (passport) characteristics do not tell everything about the camera. It's great when a manufacturer announces an upper sensitivity limit of ISO 51,200. But it can impress people who, shall we say, are not very literate. And others know all too well that there will certainly be problems at this sensitivity, even with full-frame cameras.

We will not repeat all the details of our method; it is detailed in a separate article. Let's just remind that we plot the curves of resolution (it always drops with increasing sensitivity) and noise (for some reason they always grow with increasing ISO) on one graph. You can visually assess the quality by observing how the resolution and noise curves converge. If the distance between them is great, the image quality will be very good. If the curves come close, it's hard to say anything good about the quality.

And one more note: we usually show on the graphs how the resolution drops and the noise grows in the ISO 100 - 12800 range, although the estimates are calculated using the ISO 100 - 6400 data. We decided to limit the upper limit of the calculations so that most cameras could pass our test. In particular, Fujifilm X-T10 - after all, it allows you to get RAW images only in the ISO 200 - 6400 range. Perhaps this is how the manufacturer emphasizes that only in this range you can count on high quality. And if you want to go above 6400 ISO - please, at your own peril and risk.

Even a quick glance at the RAW and JPG charts shows that in the ISO 200 - 6400 range, the heroine of our test provides very high performance. And the manufacturer's strategy is pretty clear:

• We will not raise the resolution to the skies, 16 megapixels are enough for us.
• But we will get relatively large pixels on a relatively large matrix (APS-C).
• This will give us an advantage in resolution - the number of distinguishable pixels on the Fujifilm X-T10 matrix reaches 80%, while cropped DSLRs usually lose 30-40% of effective pixels (on average, in the ISO range of 100 - 6400).
• This, of course, will give us a gain in noise suppression.

Let's compare the Fujifilm X-T10's ratings to the very solid 24MP Pentax K-3 DSLR, one of the best in its class. Let me remind you that:

• R - average resolution in the range of ISO 100 - 6400;
• R R - average resolution relative to the size of the matrix;
• N is the average noise level in this range;
• RN is the ratio of resolution to noise.
  • Light - average values ​​between RAW and JPG with the filter turned on in a light scene;
  • Dark - average values ​​between RAW and JPG with the filter turned on in a darkened scene;
  • Avr is the average between Light and Dark.

The fact that Fujifilm X-T10 has a lower sensitivity of ISO 200 (usually the minimum sensitivity is ISO 100) practically does not affect anything, let's not pay attention to the little things. Better to note that the 16-megapixel mirrorless camera is only slightly inferior to the 24-megapixel DSLR in terms of the number of distinguishable pixels. And for noise it gives a lower indicator. On average, the Fujifilm X-T10 noise is estimated at 2.4 points, the Pentax K-3 noise - 2.79 points.

And although according to the final assessment - RN - Fujifilm X-T10 did not "jump" to the result of the Pentax K-3, it did not lag behind that much, overtaking many APS-C format DSLRs.

Now let's see how correct our estimates are, how much they are supported by visuals. Let's start the comparison with ISO 400 to equalize the cameras "in rights":

I think you can see here that the resolution of the Pentax K-3 is higher, but the noise level of the Fujifilm X-T10 is lower. By the way, two years ago all experts criticized Fujifilm cameras for their low RAW level. Sometimes it was not at all clear why they needed a professional format, if it gives a quality noticeably lower than in-camera JPG, and even painstaking development is unable to straighten the "jambs". But all this remained in the past, Fujifilm now has a high-quality RAW, and each new firmware brings not only cosmetic, but also very noticeable changes. So it is imperative to change Fujifilm firmware.

Now let's see how the camera handles a dark scene using the JPG example with the noise filter turned on. We leave the comparison with the Pentax K-3.

Here we also see the Fujifilm X-T10 lose in resolution - an absolute loss, of course. As in the light scene, Fujifilm X-T10 retains 80 percent of the pixels, they can be called distinguishable, they carry information, and are not just present on the matrix. Pentax K-3 has only 60-65% of working pixels in a dark scene, so the cameras are almost comparable in resolution - about 12 Mp for Fujifilm X-T10, about 15 Mp for Pentax K-3.

And in terms of noise level, Fujifilm X-T10 wins: the noise level in a dark scene is 3.54 points, while the Pentax K-3 has 3.81 points. In human language, this can be translated as a small loss in resolution, a small gain in noise. But don't forget that this is a comparison between a 16MP mirrorless and a 24MP DSLR.

Of course, for the sake of purity of comparison, it would be correct to consider other fragments of the stand in the "processing" of Fujifilm X-T10 and Pentax K-3. I hope our programmers will create an engine for easy comparison this year, but for now let's look only at the Fujifilm X-T10.

As you can see, the strategy pays off. To stay at the level of 12 distinguishable megapixels, it is not at all necessary to raise the number of pixels on the matrix to 20 or 24 million, 16 is enough. At the same time, the initial noise level is lower, and it is easier to deal with them.

Optics - Fujinon XF18-55mm F2.8-4 R LM OIS

“The linear drive system delivers high-speed autofocus in 0.1 second, so you don't miss a shot. And thanks to quiet work this lens is great for video recording. "

This is only part of the good that the manufacturer has to say about their lens. Let's try to figure out how good the Fujinon XF18-55mm F2.8-4 R LM OIS is, it still costs a lot. Although as part of the "kit" Fujifilm gives it away for only 10,000 rubles.

EGF = 27 mm

In the short focus, we observe:

• Almost zero variance. With such small values, the sign is not even too important (minus gives "barrel", plus gives "pillow"). But still it can be noted that horizontally the picture is slightly retracted in the center, and vertically it is slightly stretched. When shooting portraits, including group portraits, zero dispersion at a wide angle is a blessing. When shooting landscapes, the picture becomes too "rectangular". In this case, the "barrel" can be added in the graphical editor.

• Resolution at both the center of the frame and the edge remains high or very high at any aperture setting. What is especially valuable - very a high resolution at maximum aperture of f / 2.8.
• But at wide apertures, we see a noticeable "chromatic" at the edge of the frame (maximum - 4%). In the center, it is close to zero.

EGF = 54 mm

Moving on to the middle focal length and we see an almost perfect picture:

• The distortion becomes even less, although it was almost zero at short focus.
• Resolution is kept at a very high level (above 0.8 lines per pixel) in the f / 3.6 - f / 16 range. And only at the narrowest aperture f / 22 drops to 0.6 lines. That is, it remains quite high.

• "Chromatics" is almost invisible, close to zero even at the edge of the frame. In our test shots, you can see faint traces of chromatic aberration, but in real shooting it will be quite difficult to find such traces.

EGF = 84 mm

And finally, on the long focus, we also see an almost perfect picture:

• Distortion close to zero. It increases slightly vertically, but is still at a low level.
• Very high resolution in the f / 4.0 - f / 16 range and just fine at the narrowest aperture of f / 22.

• Zero chromaticity in the center, weakly expressed at the edge of the frame.

Stabilizer

In the stabilizer test, we first encountered a contradiction between the manufacturer's data and the test results. To be precise - not for the first time, but all previous cases fit into the error of our test - 1/3 of the EV stop. And in the case of the Fujinon XF18-55mm F2.8-4 R LM OIS, we went 2/3 steps apart.

According to our estimates, with a probability of 0.7, the stabilizer will produce clear images at a shutter speed of 1/5 of a second with an EGF of 50 mm. That is, the stabilizer is capable of giving the photographer an additional 3 and 1/3 EV stops. The manufacturer estimates the effectiveness of the stabilizer in 4 steps. I think this is a rare case when the CIPA and iXBT methodologies (both not ideal, both probabilistic) diverged. The wise say that the truth lies in the middle. We can agree that the efficiency of the Fujinon XF18-55 stabilizer is approximately equal to 3 and 2/3 stops. And that's actually pretty good.

It is not difficult to sum up the results of the Fujinon XF18-55 test, these are almost some advantages:

• The lens is spared unnecessarily narrow aperture values, and therefore diffraction blur is not very pronounced - even at the "narrow hole" f / 22, the resolution remains at a fairly high level, 0.6 lines per pixel. And in the range from the maximum aperture to f / 16 - at a very high level (about 0.8 lines per pixel).
• In the entire range of focal lengths "geometry" slightly rises above the zero level, and "chromaticism" is poorly expressed at the edge of the frame. At the middle focus, even at the edge of the frame, it is practically invisible.
• The lens stabilizer is highly effective - at least 3.5 EV stops.
• The lens speed is remarkably fast. We'll talk about this in more detail in the section entitled “Autofocus Speed ​​and Accuracy”. And you can also confirm the manufacturer's information that the lens works almost silently.
• High-quality, beautiful bokeh effect (see photos of "Gallery").
• Even 40,000 rubles for a lens with such a set of characteristics is quite a reasonable price. And in the "whale" set, the lens can be bought four times cheaper.

The cons of the lens is more difficult to find, but we still note a couple of points:

• Nearly zero distortion at wide angle is a controversial phenomenon. For portrait and catalog photography, this is a clear plus. For landscape - rather, a minus. However, let's not forget that removing distortion in a graphics editor is more difficult than adding it. If you want to “round off” the landscape, it won't be difficult to do so.
• It's good when advanced optics have protection at least from dust. But nothing is said about the protection of Fujinon XF18-55 on the manufacturer's website.

Fujifilm X-T10 Features

Autofocus

Autofocus Fujifilm X-T10 can be said for sure: fast, but not very accurate. Here, of course, we must take into account that the conditions for testing autofocus are rather tough. First, we take a burst of 30 shots in low light of −1EV, then another burst of 30 shots in very low light of −2EV. But all tested cameras are tested in the same conditions... They need to score as many points as possible (this determines the AF accuracy) as quickly as possible (this determines the AF speed). Each shot is made only after the autofocus "squeak" - singal, that he "caught" the picture. And the type of autofocus in Live View mode (just contrast or hybrid) is for us, consumers, just a reference.

If you compare the results of Fujifilm X-T10 with the results of other cameras, you will notice:

• That autofocus is really very fast - it took less than 60 seconds for each burst of 30 shots. The priority "release - focus", of course, was set to "focus" - as required by the testing methodology and just common sense.
• But at the same time, AF quite often “smears”: about every third shot turns out to be out of focus. Let us repeat that this is happening in the semi-darkness. In light, even not very bright, the Fujifilm X-T10's autofocus, of course, works more accurately.

The autofocus rating of the cameras tested is the total number of points scored in tests at -1EV and -2EV illumination divided by the total time spent in both tests. So far, according to our method, the following statistics have been accumulated:

That is, as a result, the ratio of the points scored to the time spent turns out to be quite high. The autofocus rating of the Fujifilm X-T10 is nearly as high as that of the Canon 7D Mark II Hybrid AF, the record holder in our tests. And this result was achieved due to high speed (not accuracy).

The content of our methodology is detailed in the article on the Canon 7D Mark II, comments on the methodology - in the article on the Nikon D5500. Test images (clarified so that you can see them well) and soundtracks of Fujifilm X-T10 tests can be downloaded in the "" section.

Burst speed

The stated burst speed is up to 8 frames per second. Let's see how close this is to what we determined in the test (as usual, the shooting was carried out at the highest quality and resolution).

In low speed mode, continuous shooting is approximately 3 frames per second. In JPG, a burst at this speed can last until the memory card is full. When you turn on RAW, the camera takes about 10-11 frames at 3 fps, and then goes to 1.5 frames per second.

At high speeds, the Fujifilm X-T10 really comes close to 8fps. The fastest result is obtained when shooting in JPG - 11 frames at 7.75 fps. When RAW is enabled, the speed drops slightly, and the number of frames in a fast burst decreases to 7.

Then, after filling the buffer, JPG can be shot at a fairly high speed of 4.42 fps to infinity. RAW - at a relatively low speed of 1.65 fps, RAW and JPG - at even lower, 1.45 fps. Overall, the Fujifilm X-T10 scores very well. It is especially valuable that the camera saves speed close to 8 fps not only in JPG, but also in RAW.

We measured continuous shooting speed with a Fujinon XF18-55mm F2.8-4 R LM OIS lens and a 16GB SanDisk Extreme Pro SDHC UHS-I memory card (write speed up to 95MB / s). The shutter speed in this test is set at 1/500 of a second. We consider the opportunity to “snap off” 100 or more frames in a steady state as “infinity”. The phonograms of the tests can be downloaded in the "" section.

Video

As a video amateur, what I liked most was how quickly the camera reacts to changes in the frame. This is clearly seen when a long bus passes in front of the lens, knocking down the exposure, focus - that's all. And how instantly Fujifilm X-T10 recovers everything. It can be assumed that the camera remembers the background when a foreign object appears in the frame, but, most likely, this episode speaks precisely about the speed of analysis and autofocus.

Judging by the display of dynamic objects, the camera honestly fulfills 60 frames per second. When changing scenes quickly, when objects just flicker in the frame, this is also clearly visible - the picture is smooth. It is very pleasant that the exposure compensation wheel in Fujifilm cameras is moved to a very accessible position, under the thumb of the right hand; the scene can be instantly brightened or darkened even in automatic mode. In short, on an amateur level, the video seems great, without any flaws. As for professional capabilities (for example, the ability to change the aperture during shooting) - these are not available in Fujifilm X-T10, but I do not think that this can be considered a disadvantage. The X-T10 is a high-end amateur camera, it is foolish to make professional demands on it.

Outcomes

Now we know almost everything about Fujifilm X-T10, we can sum it up. Let's start with the pros:

• Fujifilm X-T10 is definitely a successful development, which perfectly combines the features of a professional and an amateur camera.
• There are no complaints about the quality of exposure, white balance, color rendition. In the gallery we have left a couple of pictures that are clearly "blue", but this is not a camera error, but a mistake of one very young photographer (shooting in daylight with the installation of an "incandescent lamp").
• It is also difficult to find fault with construction, design, ergonomics. Shooting with this camera is a pleasure, including through the viewfinder. Even if the photographer has never held a Fujifilm camera before, it is enough for him to explain how the aperture priority mode is set (on the lens), and then the matter will go by itself. You get used to the peculiarities of the camera very quickly.
• In terms of noise level and resolution, the Fujifilm X-T10 is excellent, it can compete with an advanced APS-C format DSLR.
• And the shooting speed can also argue - in particular, burst shooting. True, we noted the fact that high speed achieved due to [not] focusing accuracy.
• Some solutions - disguising the flash as a pentaprism, digital imitation of a rangefinder, a lever for turning on and off automatic mode - are worthy of applause. They are ingeniously simple.
• In general, all characteristics are perfectly balanced in this camera, including the price. Of course, I really want the camera to cost half as much. Even better - three times. But the world is so arranged that good things are not cheap.

Cons will be shorter, but still:

• Here we have to remember about the low autofocus accuracy, which our test showed. As far as I understand, in the contrast focusing algorithm, you can choose: either more accurately or faster (as in any homing system). In the current firmware Fujifilm X-T10, the "engine" is shifted towards speed. This is not the worst decision, but in this situation it is necessary to make it a rule to make two or three duplicate frames whenever possible. If one of them is blurry, it's okay.
• Some analysts reproach that the Fujifilm X-T10's upper sensitivity is small, only 6400 ISO units (more precisely, at ISO 6400, the ability to shoot in RAW ends). It seems to me that this speaks more about the honesty of the manufacturer, about his unwillingness to adjust the characteristics to please the thoughtless demands of the market. And, on the contrary, about the desire to provide high-quality photographs.
• As for the low resolution, let me remind you that the number of distinguishable pixels in Fujifilm X-T10 is only 20% lower than that of 24-megapixel DSLRs. But this is on average, in the range of ISO 100 - 6400. And in shooting at low sensitivities (up to ISO 1000), when multi-megapixel DSLRs lose not so many distinguishable pixels, the Fujifilm X-T10 still loses to them. This becomes visible when the frame is enlarged up to 100% (some pictures in the "Gallery" demonstrate this).

All in all, the great pros outweigh the tangible cons. In most tests, the Fujifilm X-T10 performed well or excellently. The camera isn't cheap, but it can be a loyal companion for the enthusiast photographer or a loyal concubine (second camera) for a professional. In terms of shooting quality and speed, it is not inferior to a mid-range DSLR. And its light weight, small size, flip-up screen and very good electronic viewfinder - DSLRs cannot boast of all this.

Gallery

As usual, we remind you that the pictures in the gallery are not artistic, but test ones. We tried to select frames that emphasize any feature of Fujifilm X-T10 - proprietary color rendition or the ability to expand the dynamic range, delicate flash operation. Some of the footage demonstrates how well the Fujinon XF18-55mm F2.8-4 R LM OIS blurs the background.

Fujifilm's business approach deserves respect. To reduce production and research costs, the cameras of different classes use the main components from the top model. As a result, the buyer gets high image quality, and the company gets pleasant economic indicators... Of course, the apparatuses are different. However, everyone is worried about the question "how much?" not in monetary terms, but in qualitative terms, which is sometimes impossible to measure. Today, using the Fujifilm X-T10 as an example, we will return to looking for answers.

At the time of the heyday of film photography, the market was dominated by two form factors: a reflex camera with interchangeable optics and a "soap dish", of varying degrees of simplicity - from cardboard, disposable, to highly advanced, with zoom lenses.

During the transition to digital registration of photons, they were taken as a basis, inspiring constructors and designers.

When the technical need for a mirror disappeared (at least for the majority of potential consumers), the creators turned to another form factor that was widespread at the time - rangefinder devices. Fujifilm began its second foray into the digital photography market with the X-Pro1 rangefinder; now the company's lineup includes the X-E and X-A series. However, the proven "mirror" appearance for interchangeable-lens devices is not only better perceived by a wide range of buyers, but also provides some ergonomic advantages.

Externally, Fujifilm X-T10 is very similar to SLR cameras, only instead of a pentaprism, a rising flash and elements of an electronic viewfinder are located in the characteristic protrusion of the body.

Compared to the flagship X-T1, it is smaller and lighter by about 10%. Nevertheless, it is comfortable to shoot while holding the camera with one hand (unless, of course, the lens outweighs). This is facilitated by a pair of protrusions on the front edge of the case and under the thumb on the back.

The buyer can choose between a completely black version and a black and silver version, which looks more "antique". The design is carefully worked out, the device looks just amazing.

It is possible to call the X-T10 a simplified version of the X-T1, but interpreting “simplification” as “deterioration of capabilities” is for the most part incorrect.

Let's start with management. The X-T10, like other T-series cameras, requires the photographer to actively participate in the parameter selection process. The shutter speed dial is located on the right side of the top panel, next to the Shutter button and the exposure control input wheel.

Under the shutter speed dial, instead of a light metering switch, there is a lever that enables fully automatic mode - the ideal solution when the camera is allowed to "shoot" not burdened with photographic knowledge of a family member.

The release button again has a mechanical connector for connecting a cable (by the way, I sometimes miss it in the X-T1).

The wheel located on the left handles the "feed modes" if that term is applicable to digital photography. Should you regret the ability to quickly change the sensitivity? No. Firstly, the matrix works well in the 200-6400 range (more on that later), and secondly, the device allows you to configure three options for automatic ISO selection with minimum and maximum limits, as well as a limitation on the exposure length (up to 1/500, which more than enough even with long focal length optics). If you really need to set ISO 200, then this is done very quickly either through the Q-menu, or through a thoughtful set of user settings, and there can be as many as seven sets.

Along with single-frame and burst (two-speed) selection, this wheel quickly switches between two bracketing options, built-in filters, and multiple exposure and automatic panorama stitching.

A lever under the wheel mechanically raises the flash. The lamp is displaced upward relative to the optical axis of the lens. The design does not provide for deflection luminous flux by hand, but it looks very reliable. If you want to exclude the direct hit of the pulse light on the subject (for example, when photographing with external light-guided blitz), a regular mirror or a nozzle made from improvised means helps.

The Fujifilm X-T10 has two wheels for changing parameters, one under the thumb on the rear panel, the second in the range of the index or middle on the front panel. Both support pushing.

The rear panel LCD has one degree of freedom - tilt. The angle is slightly missing when shooting in the position of the camera over your head. The aspect ratio is photographic, the image is formed from more than nine hundred thousand elements.

The camera has seven programmable buttons. Add seven slots for storing custom settings, which can be accessed with literally a couple of swipes through the Q-Menu, and you have a perfectly controllable device.

The battery and memory card are located in a common compartment on the bottom edge of the case. The tripod socket is offset from the optical axis of the lens.

Connectors for connecting a computer, TV, wired remote control remote control or an external microphone are covered by a cover on the left side of the device.

The body of the X-T10 is made of magnesium alloy, but it is devoid of dust and moisture protection, which attracts travelers from the older model. Like other T-series devices, the build quality and finishing materials are very high.

Functionality

In terms of the components that affect image quality, the X-T10 is absolutely identical to the flagship X-T1. The same proprietary (skyber's) X-Trans II CMOS 16-megapixel APS-C matrix with integrated phase detection autofocus sensors, the same EXR Processor II processor. The bundle provides a sensitivity range of ISO 200-6400 for RAW and 100-51200 for JPEG.

Differences affecting the usability have already been mentioned. But the main difference is in electronic viewfinders.

The X-T10 electronic viewfinder uses an OLED panel with 2.36 million picture elements. This is immediately noticeable, since even the smallest details of the future frame are clearly visible.

However, the magnification of the optics is x0.62 compared to the fantastic x0.77 in the X-T1. Better (x0.78) only in Sony ɑ 7R II, but its price tag in the US is $ 3200 and this is without a lens. For comparison, the top-end Canon DSLR camera with a five-figure price has this indicator x0.76, and its competitor from Nikon - x0.7.

With automatic focusing, information from 15 phase sensors integrated into the matrix is ​​used. However, this is not the only source, since the picture itself is also analyzed, and in 77 points. As a result, focusing speed and accuracy are high enough, and the photographer gets additional opportunities.

The most interesting one is face detection and automatic selection of the model's eye as a focusing point. Through the menu, it is set which one - right or left, or the solution of this creative issue is left to the mercy of electronics. Given the presence of several excellent high-aperture "portrait" lenses in the optics line, this is a very useful feature. It works perfectly with a person in the frame, the recognition accuracy is high, so much so that even a black-and-white artistic portrait printed in a magazine does not raise unnecessary questions from the processor.

Phase sensors are located in the central part of the frame (5x3) and the points for calculating the contrast along the entire plane of the frame, with a rectangular matrix of 11x7, which is much better than a "mirror" rhombus with "blind" corners.

The autofocus program was radically updated this summer and is now available for a number of other Fujifilm cameras. The X-T10 has it right out of the box. In addition to defining the eye, it should be noted that you can select the size of the area from a point to a fairly large square and rectangle.

The burst speed can be up to 8 and 3 fps in the corresponding modes. This is a good indicator for a device aimed at hobbyists, but the buffer capacity is not enough. If you use a high-speed card, for example, Kingston 64 GB SDXC UHS-I U3, then after filling the buffer, the camera continues to shoot about one frame per second. The buffer is emptied very quickly, while the device can continue to be used.

Continuous autofocus works with continuous shooting, and the photographer can choose from several algorithm options - point, zone or wide tracking area.

Regardless of the graduation of shutter speeds in whole exposure steps, in manual and priority exposure, you can set the time with an accuracy of 1/3 stop - this is done by one of the parameter adjustment wheels. The aperture of lenses where there is no ring for manual entry of the value is controlled in the same way.

The sensor and processor give very good results in terms of noise and dynamic range when shooting at ISO 200-6400. This allows you to safely use the automatic selection of sensitivity, since the current firmware version allows you to set three sets of minimum and maximum values ​​with a maximum exposure for each.

Exposure bracketing is perhaps the most important among other "fork" modes. And here there is a complaint to the Fujifilm engineers. They still think that three frames are sufficient. Yes, if bracketing is used as a safety net, then you can agree with this approach. And if for creating frames with high dynamic range? Regardless of the possibilities of RAW, I would like to get at least five frames (ideally - seven, with a choice of both the number and pitch of the fork).

Another interesting, but not very useful function in the existing implementation is interval shooting. First, the maximum number of frames is 999, which corresponds to approximately 33-40 seconds of video. Secondly, the minimum interval between frames is a whole second. In some cases, for example, when shooting from a fast moving car, this is a lot.

The battery life, according to the manufacturer, is 350 frames. Test shooting confirms: this figure corresponds to the real state of affairs. Unfortunately, charging the battery inside the camera via USB (as, for example, in the X-100T) is not provided.

Image quality

The work of the matrix and the processor can be safely assessed as "excellent". As usual, the raw files from the camera (JPEG and RAW) are available for download and close self-study here.

Fujifilm is still holding at the 16 megapixel mark. Perhaps for professional work in some areas this is not enough, but for a hobby it is quite enough.

The ISO range of 200-6400 is working, although at 6400 there is already a noticeable narrowing of the dynamic range. The nature of the noise is calm and almost analogous, at least not annoying.

Good color rendering in JPEG has become one of the hallmarks of Fujifilm devices. It's not just about the official imitation of classic analog tapes. Before shooting, the photographer can change the nature of the picture within a relatively wide range, or "develop" RAW right in the camera.

RAW has a large margin of safety. Files behave decently at 2 stops underexposure, even at ISO 3200. Overexposure is better not to joke, although some recommend it as a means of dealing with noise in the shadows. After one step, the degradation of individual colors (primarily yellow) begins.

Fujinon 16-50mmf / 3.5-5.6 OIS Lens

The X-T10 is sold either without a lens or bundled with Fujinon 16-50 f / 3.5-5.6 OIS and Fujinon 18-55 f / 2.8-4 R LM OIS or other optics. I tried the pair with 16-50 f / 3.5-5.6. This lens belongs to the budget XC series, however, it gives an excellent picture. Sharp across the entire frame, with minimal distortion. All lenses are glass, although the body (including the bayonet connector) is plastic.

The optical stabilization system has shown itself to be the best. This frame was taken without a tripod (I relied on advertising structure) with a shutter speed of 0.63 s. In the corner there is a 100% cutout without processing. As you can see, the sharpness is sufficient for printing, let alone viewing it on screen. In a series of ten frames, two turned out, for a half-second exposure almost from hand the result is good. In the gallery of examples, there is a frame with a fountain, where the exposure was 1/7 s, in the series, almost all frames were sharp.

Eventually

The X-T10 is the perfect solution for those looking for a camera with the qualities of the Fujifilm T-series, but were not ready to part with the tidy price tag of the X-T1. Many of the disadvantages mentioned in this material relate more to special applications of the camera and in no way detract from its advantages for daily photography.

Liked:

Image quality
+ Ergonomics
+ Much of the top model for a lower price

Did not like:

- Shooting in RAW is limited to ISO6400
- Battery does not charge via USB

	Fujifilm X-T10 kit (16-50mm) Black Notify when on sale
Camera category	Compact camera with interchangeable lens
A type	CMOS
The size	23.6 × 15.6
Megapixels	16
Maximum frame size	4896 × 3264
Interchangeable lens	+ (Fujifilm X)
Focal length, 35mm equivalent	24-75
Maximum aperture	f / 3.5-5.6
Optical zoom	4x
Minimum focusing distance, m (normal mode)	0,28
ISO sensitivity	auto, 100-51200
Exposure range, sec	30-1/4000
Modes: Shutter / Aperture Priority / Manual	+/+/+
Manual focus	+
White balance	auto, 8 presets, manual
Continuous shooting, frames / sec.	8
Exposure compensation, EV	+/-3, 1/3
Exposure metering	center-metering, matrix, spot, center-weighted
Built-in flash modes	auto, forced firing, slow sync, flash off, red-eye reduction
File types	JPEG, RAW
Max. frame size; frames / sec. (fps)	1920 × 1080 (60fps)
Video format	MPEG-4, H.264
Viewfinder	digital
LCD-screen (diagonal in inches; number of pixels)	3 ″, 920000
Swivel screen	+
Image stabilization system	+
External flash socket	+
Built-in microphone	+
Memory cards	SD (SDHC, SDXC)
Built-in memory, MB	—
Interface	USB 2.0, Micro HDMI
Nutrition

INTRODUCTION:

Every year mirrorless cameras are more and more confidently occupying niches of the market, in which cameras equipped with mirrors reigned supreme until recently. All manufacturers have already presented semi-professional solutions, some even professional ones. But the price of such cameras usually "bites a lot", and accordingly, the demand for them is relatively low. Therefore, manufacturers always try to give us (consumers) compromise solutions. The pros are obvious to everyone. The manufacturing company does not spend money on new developments, using and simplifying proven (and reducing costs), and we get "almost the best" for much less money. And today we have just such a "almost flagship" on our review - Fujifilm X-T10.

APPEARANCE AND DESCRIPTION Fujifilm X-T10:

Externally, the camera is very similar to the flagship X-T1... Rather, on a lightweight and slightly simplified flagship with a much more democratic price tag. Fujifilm initially, they did not expand the product line with obviously budget cameras with greatly reduced functionality, but focused on equipment from an average to a high level. All cameras, including the most budgetary X-A-series, equipped with both mechanical controls and a hot shoe. With an exit X-T10, the company has filled the gap between X-T1 and X-E2.

There are reviews of both cameras on the site, so this article will actually boil down to a comparison of three cameras. If we compare all three cameras, then there are not so many main differences. All cameras are equipped with magnesium alloy bodies, but at the same time, only X-T1... Moreover, X-T1- the most "weighty", but at the same time it is most convenient to hold it in the hand thanks to the voluminous battery grip.

Frame X-T10 like u X-T1, is made in the form factor of a SLR camera, but the controls have become smaller. Frankly speaking, it is difficult to consider this a minus, especially considering that X-T10 positioned as an amateur camera. Unfortunately, the selection wheel has been abolished, but otherwise the fan will have something to deal with.

Camera to camera Fujifilm continues to experiment with the placement and execution of his mechanical controls. The buttons give way to the steering wheels, the steering wheels change their appearance. But this time, there were no strange decisions with a rigid binding to one or another key of a certain function, which they sinned X-E2 and X-T1... All SEVEN function keys are programmable. In addition, the front steering wheel can be programmed.

On the upper edge on the right, there are traditional two wheels, one of them is responsible for the choice, the second for the choice of length. The exposure values ​​are not all applied, only the most demanded ones. To set intermediate ones, you need to switch to the " T»And set the required value with the front steering wheel. In all cameras, the mechanical shutter speed ranges from 1/4000 to 30 seconds. Have X-T10(like X-T1 with firmware 4.0), an electronic shutter appeared, allowing you to shoot at speeds up to 1/32000 sec (the shutter operating mode is selected in the menu). Also, there is a mode " V"- BULB and" A"- AUTO. Interaction of provisions A on lenses and shutter speed dial (switching shooting modes - PASM) is described in detail in the review X-E2.

Fujifilm X clearly divides its product line into two areas - amateur and advanced. And accordingly, the cameras of the series X-A and X-M are equipped with an amateur control system with a shooting mode dial, and advanced X-E and X-T series - professional, like in "adult" cameras. So, since Fujifilm positions the camera as an amateur X-T10 the "cherished" regime appeared AUTO, which is activated by a separate lever on the upper edge.

When AUTO is turned on, the camera enters fully automatic mode, regardless of what values ​​were previously set for the shutter speed and ISO (you can only mechanically set the exposure compensation).

Wheel functionality DRIVE(located on the upper left edge) seems strange at first glance, but its convenience is beyond praise. There are 9 positions in total. Single frame ( S), two high-speed shooting modes CH(8 frames per second) and CL(3 frames per second), multiple exposure mode, panorama stitching and a couple of cells for setting presets - bracketing (BKT1, BKT2) and creative filters (Adv1, Adv2).

BKT(bracketing) is shooting several frames with automatic change of a certain parameter, and Adv- the imposition of certain software filters on one frame. There are five types of bracketings in the camera (according to exposure, according to ISO, according to white balance, with a change in dynamic range and bracketing with film modeling). There are also quite a few creative filters - thirteen. There are many options, so the photographer is given the opportunity to save not one, but two presets at once for of a certain type shooting, which is also very convenient.

The camera received a built-in flash (guide number 5 at ISO 100), which is raised by a lever on the left side of the upper edge, located under the wheel DRIVE... The flash is weak and there is no way to aim it at the ceiling for soft indoor lighting.

Like the older model, X-T10 equipped with a 3 "pan-tilt (and again - not touch) display, but for some reason with a lower resolution - 920 thousand points versus 1,040 thousand points for X-T1(and the strangest thing is that X-E2 the display resolution is the same as that of the flagship - 1,040 thousand points). In practice, this difference is almost impossible to see. The display itself has large viewing angles, good color rendering and a decent margin of brightness.

The electronic viewfinder (EVF) of the camera is 0.5 inches, it is made using OLED technology, has a resolution of 2.36 million points and a magnification of 0.62x. Have X-E2 and X-T1 EVI are similar, but they have a greater magnification - 0.64x and 0.77x, respectively. The main differences are hidden in their functionality. Like the flagship, the viewfinder X-T10 can adjust the brightness, depending on the intensity of outdoor lighting and "flip" in portrait mode, but it has no division into 2 windows for the convenience of manual focusing. Have X-E2 the viewfinder is the “simplest” one - without all of the above functions.

Next to the viewfinder is the View Mode button. Can choose:

• screen only;
• viewfinder only;
• an eye sensor that turns off the main display and turns on the EVF if you bring the camera to your face;
• only the viewfinder, which is activated by the eye sensor. This is the most economical mode and conserves battery power.

FUNCTIONAL Fujifilm X-T10:

Another key difference between the three cameras in question is how the focusing system works. Have X-T1 before the release of firmware 4.0, autofocus, although it was fast and tenacious, still remained rather limited (as for a top-end camera). X-T10 immediately equipped with a redesigned autofocus. So, X-T10 allows you to select several modes of autofocus operation:

• one point (where the size of the point is adjustable)
• wide / trekking (all 77 points, including tracking)
• focusing area selection (49-point area, 3x3, 3x5, and 5x5 point selection)
• focusing on the eyes and face of a person (in this case, you can choose which eye to focus on - right or left)
• auto macro mode (automatically turns on macro mode)

Below you can watch a video - how it all works:

To date, the three bottom points, as well as the tracking focusing mode for a wide area of ​​the camera X-E2 just missing. Considering that X-E2 equipped with the same focusing module, it is possible that soon we will see an updated firmware for it.

In the light of the above, the question arises - why was there a non-programmable button MACRO at X-E2, and most importantly, what to do with it when / if the firmware is updated?

But most importantly, the overall impression of the autofocus is the most positive. The camera in question is equipped with a hybrid autofocus system. That is, the matrix has both phase sensors and contrast focusing sensors. This symbiosis, a priori, excludes back-front focus, and is able to focus faster. In addition, unlike the same SLR cameras with their narrow areas of concentration of phase sensors in the center of the frame and a "blind zone" at the edges, the matrix X-T10 almost completely "covered" with autofocus sensors (phase and contrast). Accordingly, the convenience of tracking focusing increases significantly, since a moving object can be “tenaciously” tracked from edge to edge of the frame. With active shooting, this is a significant plus.

In theory, everything looks flawless, but in practice - the speed and accuracy of the tracking autofocus when photographing a fast moving subject is not as good as we would like. The same focuses much more accurately and faster, so that Fujifilm there is still room to strive for.

For the sake of fairness, it should be noted that the phase sensors, like those of SLR cameras, are concentrated in the center, the rest of the area is covered with contrasting ones.

Sensor, processor and exposure metering system X-T10 exactly the same as in X-T1 and X-E2... So everything that I wrote in the reviews X-T1 and X-E2 about the image quality, "noise" and the dynamic range of the sensor, can be fully attributed to the monitored camera. In a nutshell, then:

• the picture is beautiful (both JPEG and RAW),
• working ISO - up to 3200. There is noise at ISO6400, but they are not terrible and are well corrected by the built-in noise reduction when shooting in JPEG.

Below are fragments of pictures taken using different meanings ISO. And for this link you can download the original files for self-study.

The burst speed is 8 frames per second, the same as that of the flagship. Naturally, there were some "cuts". The camera buffer is significantly less capacious compared to X-T1 and fills in after seven frames are taken (RAW + JPEG). Similar indicators were for X-E2.

Video shooting is a traditional "childhood disease" of cameras Fujifilm... As well X-T1, the novelty can shoot video in FullHD at 60 frames per second with progressive scan, allows you to control the shutter speed and aperture opening during the shooting. In addition, autofocus in the process of shooting video works beyond praise - accurately and tenaciously. But the quality of the rendered video leaves much to be desired (at least in comparison with competitors in the face of Sony, Panasonic and Olympus). The video recording activation button is small and very inconveniently located. It seems that the manufacturer itself protects the owner of the camera from attempts to shoot video. But it (the video button) can also be reassigned. So, if the video is still in demand, you can reprogram the activation of the video recording to another button, and assign a less popular function to the video button.

The camera uses the same as X-T1 and in X-E2 Li-ion battery NP-W126 with a capacity of 8.7 W / h. On a single charge, the camera is able to "live" a little less than 350 frames. For a mirrorless camera, this is not a record, but rather a common figure. The memory card compartment is combined with the battery compartment. This can be inconvenient when shooting with a tripod.

As in X-T1, for wireless capabilities X-T10 the application responds Fujifilm Camera Remote, which can be installed on smartphones running iOS and Android... With it, you can remotely control shooting, adjust some camera settings, transfer photos from the camera to mobile device and geotarget images.

EXAMPLES OF PHOTOS with Fujifilm X-T10:

The camera got into the review with two lenses - whale FUJINON XC16-50mm F3.5-5.6 OIS II and fix FUJINON XF18mm F2 R. The originals of photos for independent detailed study can be downloaded -.

CONCLUSIONS:

X-T10 received a prestigious award this year EISA like the best amateur compact system camera... The camera is really beautifully balanced, almost everything is brought to perfection in it. As obvious as it sounds, but X-T10 this is really an intermediate solution between X-E2 and X-T1.

In fact, for $ 500 less than the flagship, you get a camera that:

• no all-weather protection of the case,
• easier EVI,
• less capacious buffer,
• a simple built-in flash (at X-T1 small external included),
• fewer built-in white balance settings
• no connector for external studio lighting.

All other functions and content X-T1 and X-T10 completely similar. Whether the above points are worth the additional costs of buying a flagship, everyone decides for himself. But if you do not plan to photograph in extreme conditions and do not care about "long series" of pictures - the choice is obvious.

For an even smaller amount, however, you can purchase X-E2... But today, with the same "stuffing", its functionality is much simpler. It is possible that Fujifilm will release a firmware update and bring it closer to the series X-T, but when released - then we'll see. Also, use the camera X-T10 much more convenient than X-E2 - the ergonomics are better thought out.