Choosing the perfect Nikon DSLR. The best Nikon cameras New models of Nikon SLR cameras

As you probably already know, Nikon DSLRs may or may not have a so-called "screwdriver".
This is the name of the autofocus lens focusing drive located in the carcass (in the camera). It looks like this:
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As you can see, the camera on the right photo (D80) on the bottom left has another "pimp" (which is not in the photo on the left - D40). In practice, it really looks like a small screwdriver.

At the moment (07/11/12) Nikon has the following non-motorized cameras (including discontinued cameras):
- Nikon D40, D3000, D3100, D3200, D40X, D60, D5000, D5100.
All the others still have a screwdriver. Now these are Nikon D7000, D800 and D4 (yes, D300s have already been discontinued!), And all the other oldies (thousands of them!) Also have it.

I will now omit the point that cameras without screwdrivers (= entry-level cameras), in addition to the screwdriver itself, also lose a number of ergonomic conveniences of amateur and professional cameras (as a rule, they have only one wheel, one display, and in general, they are sharpened for control "with screen ", while amateur and professional allow the basic shooting parameters to be set literally without taking their eyes off the viewfinder). I would only like to highlight what the photographer will lose by losing the screwdriver.

Besides the fact that Nikon cameras come in two types (WITH and WITHOUT a screwdriver), Nikon (and a number of third-party manufacturers) makes two types of lenses:
- motor (Nikon calls AF-S, Sigma - HSM ...)
- non-motorized (AF, AF-D ...)

The rule is simple: motor lenses will have autofocus on any Nikon cameras, and non-motorized ONLY on those that have a screwdriver.
Thus, the whole difference in the presence or absence of a screwdriver in the camera will be reduced to the possibility or impossibility to fully use some lenses with a screwless camera.

Nikon, of course, does not stand still and its current production program is full of motor lenses (at the moment it is 47 out of 78, data from here), but firstly, you should not discount the used lens market, and secondly, how much Are the newer motor lenses an alternative to the old ones?

If I set out to bring together a list of all Nikon and third-party glasses that work fine on screwdriver cameras and lose automatic focus on screwdriver cameras, then the list would be too long. And to be honest, too lazy.
So I will focus on the most valuable examples:



What is wonderful:
- CHEAP!!! (3-5 thousand) and affordable
- if you close the diaphragm - very sharp
- quite light (at f / 1.8 the shots are pretty soapy, although some might say "soft")
- small and lightweight
- very little distortion (geometric distortion)

Alternatives:
- Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G AF-S DX Nikkor (it is better suited for crop due to its focal length and it is much more usable at open apertures, but twice as expensive)
- Nikon 50mm f / 1.8G AF-S Nikkor (in fact, it is full-frame, just like the hero of point 1, at a price again 2.5 - 3 times more expensive)

Conclusion:
You can't find such a cheap fix with a motor: (Yes, 35 / 1.8 is better and more convenient, but it is just as expensive.

2. Light telephoto
I'm not writing here about a specific lens, but about a whole category.
By "light" I mean f / 2.8 over the entire range, and these are the following pieces of glass and stone:

Nikon AF 80-200 f / 2.8 (popularly called "version 1 trombone")

Nikon AF 80-200 f / 2.8D (aka "2nd version trombone")

Nikon AF 80-200 f / 2.8D (aka "3rd version" or "double ring")

The first from the second is outwardly easiest to distinguish from the presence of the first additional ring of the focus limiter switch. And the second limiter is implemented as a more traditional switch.

What are wonderful:
- light
- tank-like in design and reliability
- are considered almost standards of the quality of optics and pictures
- relatively cheap (in fact, the prices for used units are from about 18 thousand for the first version and up to 35 for the third, but why "relatively cheap" you will understand below in the text in the "alternatives" section)

Alternatives:
They are all very expensive :(
The most inexpensive of these is the Nikon AF-S 80-200 / 2.8. It is valued at least 5 thousand more expensive than its non-motorized two-ring counterpart. That is, it costs at least 35 thousand. Newer 70-200 are even more expensive: up to more than 60 thousand.
In fact, the crop has a wonderful Nikon 55-200mm f / 4-5.6G AF-S DX VR IF-ED Zoom-Nikkor lens. It is good for everyone: sharp and compact and inexpensive. But alas he is dark

Conclusions:
So if you need a really light telephoto lens, then with a screwdriver you can get by with twenty, and without it, you will have to add at least a tag. Or calm down and buy a dark amateur 55-200.

3. Nikon 85mm f / 1.8D AF Nikkor

What is wonderful:
- iron
- light
- fast autofocus
- on the crop it becomes, as it were, a telephoto lens (and initially this is a classic portrait lens for a full matrix), so when I spoke above about available light telephoto lenses, then with a screwdriver you can quite consider this lens as a VERY light telephoto lens, albeit a fix
- pretty nice in the picture

Alternatives:
The closest motor analogue is Nikon AF-S 85 / 1.8G. But it is at least twice as expensive (about 10 thousand versus 20)

4. Wide angle lenses
The situation with shiriks is not so sad. The point is that they are all very expensive. Well, frankly, it will be difficult to find something (even without a motor) cheaper than 20 thousand. But still, the native Nikon 12-24 is very expensive (more than 30 thousand).

Conclusion:
Having a screwdriver, the choice of shiriks in the secondary market will still be wider, and finding something cheaper will greatly increase. For example, about a year ago (summer 2011) I bought the first version of Tokina 12-24 in Moscow for 7.5 thousand (though it had a cosmetic defect). And he would not work on a non-motorized carcass.

In 2017, Nikon celebrated its 100th anniversary. During this time, the company has gathered millions of fans, and the lineup today includes hundreds of different cameras from miniature action cameras to large professional cameras. And for all the past years, only one thing has not changed - the quality of the devices. The most loyal Nikon fans do not change their taste and always choose the equipment of this particular brand. Therefore, today, especially for such confident Nikon connoisseurs, we have selected the best Nikon cameras that you can buy in 2018.

Nikon D500 - Best of the Best

If you combine the technicality of today's FX series cameras with the ruggedness and convenience of the more amateur DX series, you have a camera like the Nikon D500. The camera body is made of magnesium alloy and traditionally has a soft streamlined shape. The almost classic Nikon design with a slightly elongated body remains unchanged as always. Inside the device is an EXCEED 5 image processor and a 20.9 megapixel CMOS matrix. Already on this it becomes clear that we are dealing with an excellent professional camera. Add to that the ISO range of 100-51.200 and you will notice that the quality of photos in any lighting condition is simply excellent.

Nikon COOLPIX P900 - Best Zoom

We won't elaborate on why, but if zoom is the most important thing for you in a camera, then you shouldn't go far. The Nikon COOLPIX P900 offers 83x optical zoom and 166x dynamic zoom, all in a small body. With the Nikon COOLPIX P900, you get a true camera with a powerful telephoto lens. The camera body strongly resembles a DSLR, but there are reasons for that: to make the design more convenient and to work with the camera easier. This is why the Nikon COOLPIX P900 features an ergonomic body with a comfortable side grip. Again, a high-resolution electronic viewfinder has been added for convenience.

What is working inside this chamber? It is a 16MP CMOS sensor that helps you capture every detail. The camera also has built-in Wi-Fi and GPS for easy synchronization.

As for the shooting process itself, the Nikon COOLPIX P900 offers a wide range of creative control and adjustment options, all of which are made even easier and more convenient thanks to the tilt-back display.

Nikon COOLPIX B500 - Budget counterpart for large zoom

If you're looking for a quality camera with good zoom at an affordable price, then the Nikon COOLPIX B500 is a sure-fire option. Equipped with a 16-megapixel sensor and Full HD video capabilities, plus a convenient fold-out LCD display, this camera weighs very little while offering great features. The main attention-grabbing feature is, of course, 40x optical zoom and 80x dynamic zoom. That is, you can easily film performances, sporting events and nature. Nikon also took care of lens stabilization with vibration reduction. So the footage will be clear.

The camera is compatible with the Snapbridge app and has built-in Wi-Fi, NFC and Bluetooth. At the same time, it maintains constant communication with the application and allows you to instantly receive the taken photos directly to your smartphone.

Nikon D3400 - DSLR for Beginners

If you are just starting your journey in the world of photography, and want to try shooting with real SLR camera, if only to learn how to work with all the settings, the Nikon D3400 is just perfect. At its low price, it is definitely an order of magnitude higher than a smartphone camera or pocket camera. The Nikon D3400 is equipped with a 24.2 megapixel sensor without an optical low pass filter, so it can capture rich and rich colors that look almost lifelike.

Inside the camera is an EXPEED 4 image processor, Nikon D3400's native ISO range of 100 - 25,600 will cope with a variety of shooting conditions. Plus, you'll definitely get the full DSLR experience with an optical viewfinder, sharp autofocus and of course Snapbridge for easy syncing with smart devices.

It's safe to say that if you are looking for a great DSLR for beginners, then the Nikon D3400 is just it.

Nikon COOLPIX W100 - Waterproof Camera

Not so often, but it still happens that we are looking for exactly waterproof camera, which is capable of filming the underwater world. This question is especially familiar to fans of outdoor activities and travel. Nikon COOLPIX W100 is ready to cope with your requests and shoot as if nothing had happened, even at a depth of 10 meters. That is, whether you are scuba diving or simply snorkeling, Nikon COOLPIX W100 will help you capture moments in photos and videos. The camera has a hardened body, and is capable of operating at temperatures down to -10 ° C, and you can drop it from a height of up to 2 meters, and it will also have nothing. Nikon COOLPIX W100 can be given to children or used for the most extreme recreation. The camera will handle everything.

A 13.1 megapixel CMOS matrix works inside, the NIKKOR lens is equipped with a 3x optical zoom. Shots are sharp in a variety of lighting conditions, and you can capture your underwater adventures in Full HD.

If you're already planning a vacation, don't forget the Nikon COOLPIX W100!

Nikon COOLPIX A300 Best Compact Camera

This tiny camera will easily fit into your pocket, so you can carry it with you anytime, anywhere. Nikon COOLPIX W100 is great alternative in case you need something better than a smartphone but lighter than a professional camera. A 20.1 megapixel CCD sensor is installed inside, plus the camera is equipped with a four-axis vibration reduction function, which will allow you to always get excellent and clear images, even when you are taking a photo on the go.

Of course, there is something that significantly distinguishes the Nikon COOLPIX W100 from the same cameras on smartphones and distinguishes it for the better - an 8x optical zoom, which allows you to shoot from afar and get the same excellent quality. Thanks to the possibility of retouching right in the camera and the presence of special effects, you can always edit the photo and, of course, send it to your smartphone using Snapbridge.

Superficial review of Nikon's lens lineup

Chances are, if you don't shoot with a Canon DSLR, you are using a Nikon camera. While so many other firms make great cameras, these two companies own the bulk of the market, and their battle is epic - decades of struggle for leadership. Nikon is older, the history of the company begins in 1917 as Nippon Kogaku Kogyo Kabushikigara.

Nikon DSLR lenses today are split into cropped DX (APS-C) and full-frame FX (35mm) lenses, but both lens formats share the same Nikon F mount. Since this mount type has remained largely unchanged since 1959, modern Nikon DSLRs can (with some exceptions) have been using lenses in the past 55 years. This is one of the traits that allowed the company to acquire its fans.

Nikon DX lenses

Designed for aspiring photographers using low-end DSLRs such as the D3000-3200, D5000-5600, D7000-7200, DX lenses are smaller, lighter and generally more affordable than their FX counterparts. It is impressive that Nikon offers about 2x more crop lenses than Canon. Apart from the usual kit lenses, you can buy the entire line, ranging from fish eye, macro lenses, before telephoto lenses.


Please note that cropped and full-frame nikons have the same mount, with very different sensor sizes.

Due to the fact that the mount has not changed for many years, you can use both modern and old full-frame lenses with your cropped camera. Depending on which model you have, you can use lenses up to 1977 without any problem. By the way, most cropped lenses can be used on Nikon full-frame cameras thanks to the crop mode.

Older Nikon models (d7000 and older, d600 and older) have an aperture position control lever. If you are using older Nikon lenses without electronics, the lever feeds the aperture value to the camera. You only need to specify the maximum value in the camera settings, and then the camera will handle it on its own. Also, on old Nikon lenses aperture jumper and autofocus confirmation works (a lamp in the corner of the viewfinder lights up), allowing you to work as comfortably as possible. For example, the Helios-81H on my Nikon D600 is fully functional, except for the lack of autofocus.

Unfortunately, the younger Nikon models (3000, 5000 series, D60, D40) do not have a focus motor built into the camera, so autofocus is possible for them only in conjunction with AF-S lenses of the G series (or similar lenses from other manufacturers). Earlier D-type lenses will not focus automatically, so you have to look for modern lenses for them.

Nikon Full Frame (FX) Lenses

Most Nikon F mount lenses released for Nikon cameras are full frame and are labeled FX (which stands for full frame). These lenses are designed to cover the full-frame FX sensors of Nikon cameras such as the D600, D700 and D800 and their successors. This means that they also cover APS-C (crop) DX matrices.

It turns out that these lenses are larger and heavier than their DX format counterparts and tend to be more expensive. In addition, while there are many versatile zoom lenses and cheap solutions available, many lenses are designed for professional photographers and advanced hobbyists. These lenses include super fast, super telephoto and high quality macro lenses.

There are now about 70 Nikon FX format lenses on the market, plus many third party models such as Sigma, Tamron, Tokina, Samyang. In addition, you can use several generations of Nikon F-mount manual Nikon lenses (specifically Ai and Ai-S) without adapters and start shooting right away.

Terms you need to know

Although Nikon is not as aggressive in patenting names and abbreviations as some other firms, Nikon continues to use some abbreviations and abbreviations on its lenses. The firm also uses a few terms that are not written on the lenses, but are important to understanding the subject matter.


Nikkor: The name of the Nikon lens division.

DX: DX format lenses are designed for Nikon entry-level crop sensor (APS-C) DSLRs - D40, D60, D3000, D5000, D7000 and their successors. They can be used on full frame (FX) cameras in Crop mode.

FX: FX format lenses are designed to cover the full-frame sensor on D600, D700, D800, D3, D4, D5 (and Df) series cameras. Since they have exactly the same mount as DX lenses, they can be mounted on DX cameras with a few exceptions.

G and D Lens Types: The difference is simple: Nikon's D-type lenses have an aperture ring, while G-lenses do not. Type G lenses have a focusing motor, while D lenses do not. Some newer DX DSLRs (including the D3000), due to the lack of a motor inside the camera, do not support autofocus with D series lenses.

VR: Nikon's abbreviation, which is used for optical image stabilization, comes from the English "Vibrant Reduction." A newer version of the stabilizer, called VR II, works on some newer lenses.

AF: Lenses marked with an AF mark use the focusing motor inside the DSLR to focus. These lenses will not focus on Nikon's lower-end DSLRs.

AF-S: Lenses marked AF-S have a focusing motor built into the lens. AF-S lenses autofocus works on all Nikon DSLRs.

SWM: Acronym for “Silent Wave Motor,” this term refers to the ultrasonic motor built into AF-S type lenses.

N: Denotes Nikon's proprietary nanocrystalline coating formulated to reduce ghosting, ghosting, and internal reflections.

ED: The lens contains ultra-low dispersion lenses that reduce chromatic aberration in photographs.

FL: Some Nikon lenses - especially super telephoto lenses - use fluorite glass lenses that reduce chromatic aberration and weigh much less than regular glass.

Micro: This is just a peculiar distortion of the Nikon word "Macro". If the description of the lens says Micro-Nikkor, then it is a macro lens.


If you or your loved ones already have photographic equipment and optics Nikon, then in order to save on lenses, it would be preferable to get a DSLR from this manufacturer.

Nikon lenses from the 70s and 80s are compatible with many modern cameras, so you can use them for many years. You get quality glass at a relatively inexpensive price.

Whether it's Nikon or Canon, you have to understand that you are choosing a camera with a great range of lenses. If you have friends or family members who shoot with this or that brand, and you will often contact them, then this is already a good enough reason to give preference to any of these brands.

What doesn't matter

At the time of this writing, Nikon has 4 cameras to choose from: D3200, D5200, D90, or D7100. In addition to modern models, consider purchasing older equipment to save your budget. We will talk about this below.

But before we focus on the specifics of individual models, let's start by listing the things that you should stop paying attention to. This will simplify the decision-making process.

Megapixels

If you have not purchased a camera for a long time, then, most likely, when choosing, first of all, pay attention to the number of megapixels.
Stop, please.

Any new camera these days has enough megapixels. Even more than you need. Even if the lower end camera has 10-12MP, it will give you enough detail to print poster-sized images without any major issues. Plus, how often do you need such a format?

It's good to have a lot of flexibility, but once you use 24MP the file sizes are huge. You won't often shoot at the highest quality level, simply because it's not practical.

Full frame versus crop

Are you new to photography? Then don't go chasing a full-frame sensor. In other words, the D600, D800 and D4 can be excluded for Nikon cameras right away.

Why?
They are big. They are expensive. And if you don't professional photographer, this will be overkill for you.
So you better save your money on buying new lenses.

To pacify your mind, for example, the inexpensive Nikon D3200 DSLR provides image quality that in most shooting situations will be very close to what you get with the most expensive camera - D4. In most cases, with more expensive models, the user gets more options for controlling parameters and other things that professionals need.

(module Yandex direct (7))

Video

Shooting video is a specification that can make a difference. But for most of you, this shouldn't be a problem.
Have you ever filmed a video with a DSLR camera? Many newbies haven't done this yet. It's not so easy.
And if you were shooting, then you probably know what it is when the sound is terrible, and autofocus does not work in the required mode.
If you want a good camera that shoots video, check out the Canon S110 Pocket Camera. It is easy to use and will provide you with excellent video recording.

Just think about how important video filming is to you.

If you're an expert and have additional gadgets that you can use with your DSLR to break into more professional video options, that's great. Otherwise, you should look elsewhere.

Finding the best camera for your needs

We won't go over everything specifications each camera. Let's take a look at the different types of Nikon camera users, and then you can figure out which model suits you best.

The best photo quality at the lowest price?

As we mentioned above, in most cases in good lighting conditions, the image quality with an entry-level DSLR can rival its more expensive counterparts. So if you want good quality at a minimal cost, the Nikon D3200 is just right for you.

If the price is very, very important to you, then you can find an older model - D3100, which is still well spoken about. In doing so, you are compromising on build quality and lower screen resolutions compared to newer models.
We do not recommend the D3000, as we did not find anything impressive in it.

Photographed from NIkon D3200 - Krabi, Thailand

Experienced DSLR owner looking to upgrade without breaking the budget?

Let's face it. Price is not an unimportant issue for most of us. Let's say you're ready to move from your D3100 or D5000, which you've been using for a couple of years, to something more advanced to upgrade your professional level... You already have several lenses, but you don’t want to spend too much money.

Experienced HDR photographer?

If you are a more experienced HDR photographer, then the D7100 is a must.
It has several key features which make this camera the best for HDR.

First, you can get 5 bracketing frames. On closer inspection of HDR, you will find that 3 frames are often not enough to cover the full range of required lighting. The D7100 lets you add two more frames with ease.

Plus, this camera shoots at up to 7 frames per second, so if you're trying to bracket on the fly and don't have a tripod, the results will be much better. But the use of a tripod still cannot be ruled out.

The abundance of options for camera control and setting options suits the more experienced photographer and makes it much easier to take pictures.

The D7000 has a three-frame exposure bracketing, so the D7100 is a better choice in this case.

Shot with Nikon D7100 HDR - Sun River, Oregon

(module Yandex direct (9))

Upgrading from a soap dish to your first mirror?

If you've always shot with a point-and-shoot camera and decided to upgrade to a DSLR, this may seem like a bit of a daunting task. But don't worry, this is not entirely true.

The great thing about the D3200, which is aimed at beginners, is that it has a very clear menu. This camera is capable of much of what its more advanced cousins ​​do. And in it, just like in a soap dish, it is easy to navigate through the menu. There is even a button here that will explain the various features of the camera when you're not sure about them.

If you want a little more control, but keep the menus simple and straightforward, then the D5200 is the place to go. She will definitely give you more possibilities for growth than the D3200.

Shot with Nikon D5000 Havana, Cuba

Are there many older Nikon lenses?

Perhaps you or your family have old optics, for example, 50mm f / 1.2. Almost any lens from 1977 and up will pass the autofocus test.

, D3500, D5600, D800E, D810, D810a, D850,, D3x,, D4s,, + (and its modifications) and Kodak DCS Pro SLR / n (and its modifications) +, S3 Pro UVIR, IS Pro.

List of all Nikon Z-mount digital mirrorless cameras

List of all "Nikon Nikkor Z" / "Nikon S-line" full frame lenses for Nikon Z mount mirrorless cameras

The letter 'S' in lens data only refers to the new line of mirrorless lenses Nikon S.

The exact list of Nikon 1 interchangeable-lens system mirrorless cameras:

Nikon has released a range of interchangeable-lens mirrorless cameras with Nikon 1 mount and 1 Nikkor lenses (also called Nikon CX).

  • , Nikon 1 J2, Nikon 1 J3, Nikon 1 J4, Nikon 1 J5.
  • Nikon 1 S1, Nikon 1 S2
  • Nikon 1 V1, Nikon 1 V2, Nikon 1 V3

It is best to use specially designed Nikon CX lenses on these cameras (same as 1 Nikkor).

An exact list of all 1 Nikkor lenses:

UPD: In the summer of 2018, the Nikon 1 system ceased development.

Nikon FX and Nikon DX digital cameras and lenses, their difference

Depending on the size of the sensor, Nikon DSLR and mirrorless cameras are divided into two types: FX and DX. Lenses for these cameras are marked in the same way.

FX lenses are designed for full-frame FX cameras (also called full-frame, or full-size, or Full-Frame).

DX lenses are designed for cropped DX cameras (also called cropped cameras, or APS-C sized sensor cameras).

Nikon FX cameras have a sensor the size of a classic 35 mm film, DX cameras have a smaller sensor, the so-called ‘cropped’, with a frame diagonal 1.5 times smaller than that of the FX.

The full-format camera is marked with ‘FX’ on its body. He is shown here with a full-frame lens.

Before the Nikon DX cameras, there were only full-frame cameras and Nikon FX lenses that do not actually have an FX designation, since at that time it was not necessary to separate the full frame and the cropped frame. Examples of lenses from full frame cameras:

As you can see, the ‘FX’ prefix is ​​not indicated in the lens name. If the lens is not labeled DX or CX, then it is a full frame lens for an FX camera.

Following the introduction of Nikon DX DSLRs, the manufacturer began manufacturing DX lenses to save on glass, metal and plastic. And all lenses for cropped cameras were already designated DX. Examples of DX lenses:

As you can see, all lenses have the letters DX in their names.

Important about DX and FX


Exact list of all Nikon DX cameras:

All Nikon DX series cameras have the same actual physical size of their sensor (matrix). The size is approximately 23.6 mm X 15.8 mm. The physical size is not directly related to the number of MegaPixels.


An accurate list of all Nikon FX cameras

Very important, so important that everyone should know: All Nikon FX series cameras have the same actual physical size of their sensor (matrix). The size is approximately 36 mm X 24 mm. The physical size is not directly related to the number of MegaPixels.

  • All Nikon DX lenses can and should be used on Nikon DX series crop sensor cameras (see above for the exact list).
  • All Nikon DX lenses can be used on full-frame cameras such as Nikon D3, D3x,, D4s,,, D800E, D810, D810a, D850, but the camera will either use only part of its sensor to take a photo, or the resulting image will have irreparable vignetting and other distortions at the edges and corners of the frame. This is because DX lenses cannot project onto the large array of FX cameras. The use of DX lenses on FX cameras is not recommended... Full frame cameras can automatically recognize and adjust the DX lens to work with it. Personally, I don't see the point in buying an expensive full-frame DSLR camera and using the 'simpler' DX lenses on it.
  • It is recommended to use only Nikon FX lenses for all Nikon FX cameras.
  • All full-frame lenses (lenses from FX cameras) can be used on DX cameras without any problems, and you only need to take into account the visual effect of.

As an example, a shot with a full-frame camera Fx(Full Frame) and cropped lens. The camera is set to full frame mode ‘Image area fx‘. It can be seen that the cropped lens gives black corners (vignette) and the picture is unusable.

If you take the same photo, but in camera mode ‘image area DX‘Then the camera will automatically use only the central area of ​​its sensor and as a result the picture will be like any other Nikon DX camera. Below is the same shot on Fx(Full Frame) in ‘ DX image area‘.

Indeed, Nikon FX full-frame cameras can use cropped lenses in ‘DX’ crop mode. In this mode, only the central part of the camera sensor will be used, equal in size to the sensor used in Nikon DX cameras, which will avoid vignetting using a cropped lens on full-frame cameras. To do this, in the camera menu, it is enough to turn on the function 'Image area' -> 'Select. image area 'and select the value' DX format 24x16 'there.

If we sum up the above points, then it begs small conclusion- Conventional FX lenses can be used on all types of cameras: FX and DX. And lenses from cropped DX cameras are not recommended for full frame FX cameras.

Exact list of all Nikon DX Nikkor lenses

Fixes

  1. Nikon DX AF Fisheye Nikkor 10.5mm 1: 2.8G ED with a gold ring ()
  2. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical ()
  3. Nikon DX AF-S Micro Nikkor 40mm 1: 2.8G SWM ()
  4. Nikon DX AF-S Micro Nikkor 85mm 1: 3.5G ED VR SWM IF Micro 1: 1 ()

Wide angle

  1. Nikon DX AF-P Nikkor 10-20mm 1: 4.5-5.6G VR ()
  2. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 10-24mm
  3. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 12-24mm 1:4 G ED SWM IF Aspherical with a gold ring ()

Universal

  1. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 16-80mm 1: 2.8-4 E N ED VR Nano Crystal Coat SWM IF Asphericalwith a gold ring ()
  2. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 16-85mm
  3. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 17-55mm 1: 2.8 G ED SWM IF Aspherical with a gold ring ()
  4. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM Aspherical [black / silver] ()
  5. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM Aspherical [black / silver] ()
  6. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR Aspherical ()
  7. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII VR II ()
  8. Nikon DX AF-P Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ()
  9. Nikon DX AF-P Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6G VR ()
  10. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED SWM IF Aspherical ()
  11. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-105mm
  12. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical ()
  13. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical [Thailand / China] ()
  14. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical [Japan / China] ()
  15. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM VR IF Aspherical ()
  16. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical ()
  17. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical ()

Television

  1. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6G ED SWM [Black / Silver Japan / China] ()
  2. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6G ED VR IF SWM ()
  3. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6GII ED VR II ()
  4. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-300mm 1: 4.5-5.6G ED VR SWM HRI ()
  5. Nikon DX AF-P Nikkor 70-300mm 1:4.5-6.3 G ED ()
  6. Nikon DX AF-P Nikkor 70-300mm 1: 4.5-6.3 G ED VR ()

All Nikon DX lenses for Nikon Z mount mirrorless cameras

Nikon Professional DX Lenses for DSLR Cameras

I didn’t call Nikon DX lenses “simpler” for a reason. It just so happened that all Nikon professional optics are lenses for the full frame. The only professional lenses for Nikon DX cameras are:

These lenses have gold ring near the front lens- a sign of top class lenses. These lenses are listed on the Nikon NPS (Nikon Professional Services) list.

Attention: Nikon Nikkor DX lenses indicate not the equivalent focal length (EGF), but the physical real focal length of the lens. Focal length is a physical parameter of the lens itself, which does not change when mounted on different cameras. And for FX and DX lenses, to find the EFR when used on cropped DX cameras, you need to multiply the focal length by Kf = 1.5X. For example, the EGF of a lens on a cropped camera will be 27-82.5mm (18 * 1.5 and 55 * 1.5). The relationship between focal length and viewing angle can be viewed.

Healthy: if you select “Off” in the menu of full-size cameras in the “AF point illumination” setting, then after turning on one of the cropping modes (in fact - cropping), the unused area of ​​the image visible in will be darkened, which will greatly facilitate sighting using cropped regime. Below is shown how unused areas are darkened when certain crop modes are enabled.

About auto focus capability

For the ability to autofocus the lens on the Nikon Nikkor lens are responsible AF, AF-I, AF-S and AF-P designations.

What is the difference between AF-S / AF-P / AF-I and AF lenses? In an AF lens, focusing occurs due to the camera motor, in such cases it is said that the camera has a 'screwdriver' or focusing motor. In contrast, in AF-S / AF-I / AF-P lenses, focusing is due to a motor directly built into the lens itself.

Lenses marked 'AF'

These lenses do not have a built-in autofocus motor and will automatically focus only on cameras that have there is a focusing motor (‘screwdriver’).

Defining such a lens is very simple - in its name it only has the 'AF' prefix. Also, such lenses have a special groove on the bayonet side, with the help of which the torque of the 'screwdriver' is transmitted. What we are talking about can be seen in the photo below:

AF Lens - Highlights

The exact list of Nikon digital SLR cameras (DSLRs) with a built-in focus motor:

An example of an 'AF' type lens -. In turn, this lens will not have autofocus capability on cameras that do not have a focusing motor.

Cameras that do not have a built-in focus motor require AF-S / AF-I / AF-P lenses.

The exact list of Nikon digital cameras without a built-in focus motor:

These cameras will not work only with automatic focus and focus sound confirmation, all other important functions such as automatic metering and automatic control the diaphragm will work well.

Lenses marked 'AF-S'

With these lenses, the focusing motor is already built directly into the lens barrel. These lenses will automatically focus on all Nikon cameras. These lenses include.

'AF-S' on the main lens name, which is usually written in gold letters. The photo shows

Almost always on AF-S lenses you can also find the prefix 'SWM', which stands for Silent Wave Motor (silent wave / ultrasonic motor).

'SWM' mark on lens information plate

Important: SWM motors come in two main types, parts.

If you use optics from other manufacturers, then you need to know exactly whether the lens has a built-in motor or not, the designations of each manufacturer are their own and do not overlap with the designations of Nikon Nikkor lenses.

Important: Due to certain peculiarities associated with cameras, the following ‘AF-S D’ lenses will not work properly (this only applies to these cameras):

  1. Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 300mm 1: 2.8 D
  2. Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 500mm 1: 4 D
  3. Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 600mm 1: 4 D
  4. as well as all lenses,

Lenses marked 'AF-P'

Nikon introduced Nikon Nikkor lenses in the 'AF-P' line in January 2016. Designation ‘AF-P’ (A uto F ocus P ulse motor) indicates the presence of a fast and Nikon STM (Stepping Motor) focusing motor. ‘AF-P’ lenses work in a similar way to ‘AF-S’, only quieter, faster and more accurate. The same type of motor is used for.

'AF-P' designation on Nikon DX AF-P Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6G lens

Please note that not all Nikon cameras will be able to work correctly with ‘AF-P’ lenses, some cameras will need to be updated to be fully ‘AF-P’ compatible.

Full list of Nikon 'AF-P' lenses:

Autofocus with AF-P lenses will only work with cameras (exact list):

Auto and manual focus will not work with cameras (exact list):

Lenses marked 'AF-I'

Nikon AF-I lenses are on the side. The lenses themselves are motor type 'AF-I' (Auto Focus Internal Motor)- very rare lenses, and also very expensive. Some users mistakenly call them 'AF-1' ('AF-one').

Some of these lenses use a built-in focusing motor for focusing, built on the basis of conventional electric micro-motors, which make a lot of noise during focusing. There is no exact data on what type of motor is used in Nikon AF-I lenses.

Attention: there is also no exact information about whether amateur-grade cameras will work with such lenses. But, most likely, no mortal will ever mount such a lens on a simple amateur camera.

Full list of Nikon AF-I lenses:

  1. Nikon ED AF-I Nikkor 300mm 1: 2.8D, 1992-1996
  2. Nikon ED AF-I Nikkor 400mm 1: 2.8D, 1994-1998
  3. Nikon ED AF-I Nikkor 500mm 1: 4D, 1994-1997
  4. Nikon ED AF-I Nikkor 600mm 1: 4D, 1992-1996

When choosing a lens, the most important parameters are its type (FX, DX) and the focusing method. If you now know what kind of FX or DX camera you have, with or without a built-in focusing motor, then by choosing a lens for just these two parameters, you will get all the necessary functions for shooting.

Lenses without a built-in focus motor usually cost less than their motorized counterparts. If you have a camera with a motor, then in a certain sense you can save on lenses. As an example, you can take a look at which is very cheap:

About aperture control options

Another interesting thing you can find on Nikon lenses designation - letter 'G'- a lens with such a letter can only control the aperture directly from the camera, and the lens does not have a diaphragm control ring.

G (‘Gelded’) lenses are virtually impossible to use with some older film cameras as the aperture will be permanently closed there. Also, lenses with an aperture ring (Non-G) can be used more flexibly for all kinds of photography surveys, such as.

Myths: It is often said that there are 'D' and 'G' lenses, D with aperture control ring and G without aperture control ring. Actually it's a delusion- the letter ‘D’ (or ‘AF-D’) speaks of the possibility of transferring the focusing distance to the subject to the camera - this makes it easier to calculate the flash power for the correct one. The misconception stems from the fact that almost all ‘D’ lenses have an aperture control ring, because previously they did not denote a division into lenses with and without aperture ring.

The difference between the lens G and without G (for example, lenses and)

Projection for reading the end position of the aperture ring on a lens that is a NON-G type lens, that is, one that has an iris control ring.

Very important: To use a 'NON-G' type lens (with aperture ring) in the same way as a G type lens (control aperture from the camera), you need to set the aperture control ring to the maximum F-number, usually F16, F22, F32 and switch the special lock on the lens, which will fix the aperture control ring in a fixed position. Different lenses either lock the ring themselves in the extreme position, or require manual locking using a special switch. If this is not done, the error ‘fEE’ (aperture ring not set) will be displayed on some cameras.

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