Fujifilm X-T1 camera review: a waterproof “mirrorless” camera. Comparison of characteristics of cameras Fujifilm X-T1, Fujifilm X-E2 and Olympus OM-D E-M1 ⇡ Specifications declared by the manufacturer

The X-T1 is priced at $ 1299 / £ 1049.99 / € 1199 body only, or $ 1699 / £ 1399.99 / € 1599 with the 18-55mm F2.8-4.0 lens (which is not water-resistant). It is available in black only (sorry, silver fans).

When Fujifilm released an updated lens road map at CES 2014, it kept something secret: that several of the lenses on it will be weather-resistant to match the X-T1. The lenses in question are the XF 18-135mm F3.5-5.6 R OIS WR, XF 16-55mm F2.8 R OIS WR, and XF 50-140mm F2.8 R OIS WR. The bad news is that these lenses won "t be available until the middle of this year.

The X-T1 with battery grip and XF 55-200mm F3.5-4.8 lens
VG-XT1 battery grip	MHG-XT hand grip

One accessory that you won "t find on any other Fujifilm X-series camera is a battery grip. The VG-XT1 holds an additional WP-N126 battery, allowing for 700 shots in total (CIPA standard). Naturally, this grip also comes with additional buttons for holding the camera vertically. But given the camera "s reliance on its top-plate dials, this ends up limited to the shutter button (with encircling lock switch), plus AE-L, AF-L, and Focus Assist buttons.

If you just want to make the standard grip a bit larger, Fuji also offers the MGH-XT hand grip. Like the recently-released updated grips for the X-Pro1 and X-E series cameras, this has a cut-out to allow easy access to the battery compartment, and incorporates an Arca Swiss-type quick release fitting for tripod use. We think this will offer better handling if you shoot the X-T1 with larger zooms.

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I am very impressed with the image quality of the XT1 but I am very disappointed with the build quality of this camera. Less than a year of using it and it "s starting to come apart already. The rubber cover has already peeled off, the doors that covers various connection won" t close already and the dials are so hard to move and sometimes just stuck. Took it to the Fujifilm Philippines repair center and my warranty was not honored and they were asking me almost $ 300 in repairs. They said the dials are stuck because of corrosion caused by dust and water (whatever happened to that highly regarded "weather proof" capability). Again, I love the image quality of this camera but this is not something I will recommend due to its build quality. Definitely not an alternative to the Leica.

"The X-T1 completely eclipses the old LEICA M240 by comparison. This Fuji is faster and cleaner, is at least as well made optically and mechanically, it has more and better external controls and ergonomics, has far superior autofocus, and has a decades -better viewfinder - oh, and the LEICA "s EVF electronic finder is offshored to China and made out of plastic!"

One of my main reason for buying this camera was build quality (I love made in japan products in general) but unfortunately it "s not as durable as to be intended, The rear dial is dead and top plate dials are not as steady as before in a short period of time (less than a year). I have a lot of Sony gadgets since years ago but none of them faced a problem due to a quality issue .they are really durable.My 10 year old made in japan vaio laptop is working pretty good yet and all my sony cameras never have a problem yet. Fuji please don "t ruin reputation of japanese product with your low quality (or quality control issues) products. if X-T1 was made in china I wouldn "t have these expectation really.

This is an excellent review but with all due respect, it could use an update. The Firmware upgrade version 3.0 has made this an even more fantastic camera! IMHO.

The features and overview described here do not reflect the cameras current state and I think that the camera, and Fuji deserve a more accurate representation of their product as so many people come to DPreview for information prior to purchasing a camera.

As I see it, Fuji seems to be the only major manufacturer that offers such fundamental changes to their cameras and lenses trough Firmware updates and that should be noted and applauded.

I bought Fujiflim X-T1 on 24 Dec 2015, and I love this camera. but recently say in Feb 2015, I found that the rubber skin on the surface and on the camera lens zoom ring started to loosen up. The lens is 18-135mm the rubber sufface had shows sign of detachment so are the rubber sufface on the Camera.
Then come last month in early April 2015 the Camera Flash fail to fire. I had try to shoot in forced flash to test it but the Flash that came along with the X-T1 failed.

The last problem i found is the Shutter Speed ​​Dail had also show its problem As i move to dail to adjust shutter speed. The metering dail also follow to move. The Shutter Speed ​​dail seems to had also failed.

Can I have my X-T1 replaced? Just bought Dec 24th 2015 and now all these problems pop up.

Can Fujiflim make their flag ship camera tougher ..? and easier to hold on too,? Why must we bought extra handle for such so called well designed camera?

Recently I "ve got a fuji AX1 with the kit 16-50 and got two lenses. 18-55 and 55-200. Now I have a question. Do U recommend me to change my body ang go for XE2 or XT1 or not? Does it make a large different in IQ.? Since I have that 2xf lenses? Or no? I am not a professional just a beginner

There will always be a new model - for X-T1 not this year any more (first X-Pro2 is coming probably end 2015).

But simply ask yourself:
- which feature of the new model are you missing at the X-T1, which prevents you from taking good pictures TODAY?

How many good pictures don "t you take the next months, since you don" t have the camera TODAY?

If you can put a camera to good use today - then buy one you like today and don "t wait for the things, that may come next year.
Just because there may be a newer model some day your existing camera does not suddenly stop taking great pictures - and if you really need one of the new features you can usually sell the exiting body for a good price.

By the way - besides the camara-body there are more important factors to take good pictures - most important the skills of the person taking them and having a camera at hand in the right moment at the right place. Then good lenses ... the body is the least important part.

I would not hesitate. I got mine soon after they were released and am very happy with it. It is a great shooting experience using this camera. Also the Fuji lens line up is great with great glass.

Also they have worked with Lightroom and resolved the early problems since LR 5.7.

Fujifilm has offered firmware 3.0 which was great and later this month firmware 4.0 will be released for free which will again add usable new features to this model.

I say go for it, as the person above said there will always be a new model coming out, and that won "t stop this X-T1 from making great photographs.

The Fuji jpeg colors are for me unmatched, not even by the NX1. With the X-T1 I "ve more options to travel light than that still more bulky NX1! Even if i want go more pro-ish I" ve the 56mm f1.2 or the pro-zooms or all the other lenses FUJI is famous for.

What the reviewer says about ISO accuracy is fascinating and matches my experience with the X-T1 (assuming I understand the iso accuracy part of the review correctly!)

I have a Canon 6D and I kept being surprised when first shooting with the X-T1, because it seemed (in aperture priority mode) to be choosing a slower shutter speed for a given scene at a given ISO than I was used to.

I wondered if I was imagining it, so I set the two cameras up together and shot the same scenes and found that this was consistently the case. For a (fictitious) example, when shooting the same scene at ISO 1600 at f / 5.6, the 6D would suggest 1 / 30th and the Fuji would suggest 1 / 15th.

It changes how I shoot because with the 6D, I know exactly the degree to which I can lean on the image stabilization in low light. My instincts don "t apply to the X-T1 in the same way and I find I need to be much more careful about keeping steady.

Most interesting and thorough review as always.

Mike if you have a look at the offerings of Canon and Nikon in the UW lenses, virtually none have OIS. I love OIS, but in long lenses when hand holding in low light is a problem
Generally if you are shooting wide, if the shutter speed is getting so slow that you need OIS, you are better off using a tripod. At these shutter speeds, if shooting people you are going to get movement artefact, and if shooting architecture etc much better on a tripod. Have a look at the premium SLR wide lenses

what? try making sense when you type, it makes your time more valuable to you and those who read your comments!
what the hells a post office got to do with me contemplating fuji bringing out an x ​​camera with 24mpx apsc sensor, or is this a thinly veiled attempt at humor using sarcasm?

I just realized that the camera is designed only for ambient light. I tried to expose in manual mode with flash and the screen and viewfinder are black. In manual mode the screen / viewfinder shows the correct exposition for ambient light, but it does not work if I want to expose only the flash light. If someone know how to solve this issue please let me know. Don´t tell me please that this is it, and there´s no solution for that.

I have just taken possession of my new camera - very nice, but don "t expect to use it with an iPhone if you value your sanity - the feedback I left in the app store:" You buy the lovely Fuji X-T1 and you want to connect to your iPhone or iPad. Your manual tells you that you need the Fujifilm Camera Remote. You install it and select your camera in wifi settings, as directed. There are four panels on your iPhone screen: Remote Control, Receive, Browse Camera, Geotagging (because the camera has no GPS, in this day and age ...) It works about right once you manage to connect, but if you want to change from one panel to the next, you have to disconnect, then go back to your iPhone wifi settings, reconnect laboriously by going through settings in the camera ... Once you've done it a few times, you come to the conclusion that the app is worse than useless and you forget it to preserve your sanity ... "
Has anybody had a better experience with this aspect?

I got the app as soon as I got the camera too. It does have some issues connecting some times, but the Geo Tagging feature is great IMHO. I can GEO tag when I choose to. I have also not had a problem connecting an ipad Air 2 in order to receive photos from the camera which is great to get a bigger view before I get home for RAW post.

Give the application a second chance.

I "m interested in this camera and would like to know two things from anyone with experience.

1. Would the pictures be in a resolution and quality high enough to make large prints, like 24 "x36"?

2. Would the sensor and available fast lenses give very good results in low light without flash?

The xt-1 is a great camera let down by a few nasty bits. Both the "doors" on the camera are unbeleivably frail.X-pro1 ones seem like tanks in comparison. I love the flush buttons on the back as I "ve been prone to connecting with buttons on digi cameras over the years I don" t want to. Like the x-pro and the x100 series the exposure correction dial has a mind of it " s own and is never where I left it.Pictures are superb and in my opinion rival anything from anywhere else including some full frame cameras. Certainly better than either of my Nikon DSLR "s. The x100s is my perfect street camera lacking little and with stunning results.The x-pro1 is my Leica M substitute used alongside the x100s with a 35mm lens and the optical finder it "s just a pleasure to hold and use. The xt-1 is a week or two old and going to replacing one of the DSLR "s (need one for action). Don" t forget the picture is the "thing" and the "thing" that makes the picture is the one pressing the button not the bits in between!

I "ve had the X-T1 for a couple of months now and just want to say kudos to Fuji. This is the first camera in decades that" s inspired me to get out and take photos. I think it "s the manual controls that I" ve been missing. I "ve been slowly lulled away to programmable buttons and touch screens, all the while not realizing I really missed the feel of my Olympus OM 35mm cameras of the 70" s. Thanks to Fuji, it "s great to be back.

I really wanted to love this camera. But, I opted for the OMD EM1 which I "m not disappointed with. It certainly has its own issues - too much crapware - but the images appear neutral and true and very detailed when enlarged.
I think I would have liked the Fuji colors more than Olympus and Fuji has a very good set of lenses. It "s a great design and better built (more metal) than the EM1.
My reasons for not buying it:

It needs a deeper handgrip
- The dials were a little too difficult for me to finger / thumb flick. Granted, they are much stronger than the EM1 "s plastic buttons but they were too stiff for me.
- The eyecup needs to be deeper. I wear glasses and am left-eyed. I couldn "t get to the back buttons which, yes, are a bit spongy, but, usable.

I also looked at the XE2 which was easier to use because the viewfinder is on the left. But, still the dials were a bit too stiff for me to flick.

I hope Fuji reads this, makes some changes and I might become a buyer :)

The XT-1 is a much higher spec camera than the 5300. The XT-1 has far more manual control, but that only matters if you intend to use manual control. The Nikon only has one control dial - this will limit you if you intend to learn to shoot with more manual settings. If you intend to shoot on "auto" settings, the XT-1 will be a total waste of money - Fuji make cheaper cameras that would suit you better.

The D5300 and XT-1 are not competitors, the XT-1 is much more similar in spec to the Nikon 7100. I suspect that if you have to ask this question, then you do not need an XT-1. Also note - Fuji lenses are much more expensive than most Nikon APSC lenses.

The Nikon is very big for an entry-enthusiast camera, there are many mirrorless cameras like the Sony a6000 with better / same performance, a similar price, and much smaller size.

It does not sound like you need an XT-1, unless you are extremely ambitious, in which case you would not be looking at a 5300.

the 5300 has full manual, aperture priority, shutter priority, auto and full program modes all easily accesible.
It has much faster, more reliable auto focus, an excellent 24mp sensor, Nikons full lens range and some superb 3rd party alternatives from Sigma, Tokina and Tamron for example.
In terms of actual pic quality, it will outperform the fuji if used with the best glass you can afford.
If I had £ 2000 (the cost of the Fuji and a fuji zoom lens or two)
I "d go for the 5300 with something like Nikon" s 24-120, or Sigma "s amazing 18-35 f1.8 instead. Indeed, the latter will save you near £ 700 and blow the fuji away image wise.
The fuji wins hands down imo on looks, build, image, weather sealing and easy to reach controls. A nicer ergonomic feel if you are a traditionalist.

I "m not at all convinced that the Nikon would have a faster more reliable autofocus. The saying" DSLR "s have better autofocus" does not apply when we are talking about an entry level DSLR and a semi-pro mirrorless.

The modes (aperture priority etc) you list on the D5300 are all easily available, but there is only one control dial, so shooting manual is borderline pointless. Great you can change aperture, but oh no not exposure now!

Why on earth would you recommend the Nikon 24-120 on a crop sensor body? You "re talking about a £ 700 full-frame lens.

Define "blow away" image wise? Fuji have fantastic lenses, and 16mp combined with their excellent auto-balance could well mean better images out of the body than the entry Nikon.

I owned a 5100, it was a great camera, but it gave me nothing a far smaller camera like the Sony a6000 wouldn "t do better now. Entry DSLR" s are a waste of space literally, you can get that sensor in a much smaller body for the same price with better autofocus.

is there a way to show on screen / in VF, the 35mm equiv focal length that you "re at when using a zoom lens? Sy you have it to your eye and quickly want 35mm, or 50mm equiv. You have to look at the lens barrel which seems clumsy.

Have I missed the feature somewhere?

Today I bought a black X-T1.
I foung it very loud when turned on. Is there a cooling fan in it? It is so loud when I record a video there is a constant not very quiet noise at the audio.
Has someone else this problem? I know from my SLR it makes no soung it is quiet. But what is that in the X-T1?

Just received mine and discover the same "fan" strange noise yesterday. Does not seem to be linked with a focusing activity. Very annoying.
Also found screen and eye finder flickering in artificial light.
Seems a very nice camera but will return ASAP.

i agree. I have tried silky pix, iridient developer and capture one pro, they all do little bit better job than lightroom, but I have gone too much down the road with LR for last many years. Yes lightroom sucks with Xtrans files but to be honest, I feel same way for all other processors i mentioned. None of the above could show me significant improvement over LR 5.4. Yes, the skins tones look better on Capture one, the sharpness and no water color effect on photoninja or silkypix but then I have everything cataloged in LR and cannot afford these minute improvements over the convenience of my workflow. I agree, I have difficulty processing these pix, however since I shoot raw and keep all raw for all my keepers so I am hoping that one day there will be a good processor for Xtrans files.

Hi. Your reply interested me as I have been shooting with a d700, waiting for Fuji to bring out an X-pro 2 with a full sensor. I had the x-pro 1 and found it tedious. How do you pics compare to your d700, and have you tried to print out in large sizes?

I will be getting a book printed soon with BLURB (which I always use to print the photo books). D700 is a beast, the reasons you may want to get to mirorless world are (i) reduce the weight (ii) be discreet on the street, both these cannot be a achieved by any full frame body and lens. Probably a full frame from fuji will suffer same problems.

I didn "t see any dial for A, S, or P priority mode. I "m sure that this can be control by the shutter and Aperture auto positions. Still, I think that there should have been some discussion on there use. Sop, how do you set Programmed Priority AE mode?

From what I have read:

FULL AUTO = Set BOTH Dials to "A"
APERTURE PRIORITY = Manually Select Aperture as desired
Set Shutter Speed ​​Dial to "Auto"
X-T1 will compute optimum Shutter
SHUTTER PRIORITY = Set Shutter Speed ​​as desired
Set Aperture Dial to "Auto"
X-T1 will compute optimum Aperture

I tried focussing on a foreground subject .... half pressed it so I got the confirmation .... then I reframed it by positioning the subject to the side of the frame while still half pressing the button .... then I took the shot and the original subject is totally sharp and in focus.

As far as I can tell the focus lock function works fine.

I would be amazed if fuji hadn "t got this right and somehow missed it or purposely ignored it as a design flaw .....

Probably this has been discussed already but I am looking at the static samples on page 17 and the image looks out of focus to me. I am looking at the paint brushes and sponges on the bottom right and they clearly are fuzzy vs other cameras. Is it a camera issue or what?
thanks.

(Part 1 of my post)

Am I the only one who is seeing a focus lock problem with the Fujifilm X series cameras in AF-S auto fucus mode (at least with the X-E2 and the X-T1)?

I am NOT talking about the issue of needing to put the AF Mode switch in the front of the camera to M for the AF-L button to be functional that everyone is aware of. Of course I was NOT using AF-C mode and complain about focus change like an idiot either.

I was in a Fujifilm showroom displaying most of their products somewhere in Asia yesterday. I spent about two and half hours trying out the X-T1 and the X-E2 and loved most features and ergonomics with the two cameras (image quality is a given that goes without saying). However, I realized a serious defect with both cameras. The focus lock actually DOES NOT lock focus very well, no matter which button you use to hold focus (shutter release on the top or AF-L on the back).

Focus just DRIFTS!

(Part 2)
No matter which lens I mated the cameras with (about four to five of them), after you think you've locked focus by the confirmation green light and the beep sound, you move your focus area away from the subject to re-frame for better composition like everybody normally would before taking a shot. The subject would be slightly out of focus (when it is not at the focus point at the time when the shutter release was pressed)!

After I found out about this issue and asked the Fujifilm rep, he actually QUIETLY confirmed my finding. We were very curious why no one brought this up in the their review. Now you understand why I withheld the exact location of this showroom earlier.

Did the reps and I do something wrong? Is there anybody else that has the same experience? If you do, how do you go about it?

I am on the verge of buying the X system as I like everything else so much. This focus problem is absolutely a deal breaker. Anybody in the know, please shed some light. Thank you.

OK ... let "s precisely analyze what you are saying to prevent misunderstandings: you have focused on a certain subject (a direct important issue is already: what method of focusing you use and how great is the chosen focus rectangle) and then you block the focusing distance via half pressing the shutter button, correct? And next you go back to the initial subject, keeping the button half pressed and then your main subject should be out of focus? Or this happens after you discontinue the focusing preset ?

unless your focus point (after AF lock) is on the exact same focus plane as your pre-focus, this method of focusing will fail on all cameras. With flexible AF points I always drop an AF point on the subject I wanted and take a shot, "half-press then recompose" method does not work well on large aperture / large image sensors.

On a smartphone yes it will work.

My apologies to all previous posters. I did not receive any notification of your reply so I couldn "t respond sooner.

What I did was the most typical method of using AF-S mode, i.e. I aimed the camera at my subject, let "s say using the center focus point on a face; half-pressed the shutter release to lock focus; recompose the shot (panning the camera away to position the face on one side of the frame while nobody was moving); and the focus on the face would drift. That was my original observation.

However, since no one else echoed having this issue with their Fujifilm X series cameras since my posts on different websites. I guess it was purely my paranoia. And for paul simon king, your best bet would be to try out the camera on your hands, or your wife "s for that matter and decide if the camera is good enough for her.

Part 1: getting to know the system

This article represents the first acquaintance of the author with both the system and, by and large, with Fujifilm cameras. Not that the author first heard about this company, just up to the present moment his acquaintance with the cameras of this company was very superficial. Now, when the opportunity to feel the Fujifilm style appeared, the author has formed personal assessments, which are no longer superficial. But this does not mean that the article as a whole and private conclusions will be subjective, or in general, everything will come down to the author's inner holivar of the kind “Which is better: Canon or Nikon?”. Everything will be said as honestly and impartially as possible. And this introduction is needed only in order not to abuse the abbreviation "IMHO" further in the text.

Not so long ago, a review of the Fujifilm X-E2 camera was published in our section. And not so long ago, the Fujifilm X series was replenished with an interesting new X-T1 camera. It makes no sense to argue about what has changed in it compared to its predecessors, since it is unique in its own way - what is the cost of many controls and dust and moisture protection! However, let's not spread our thoughts along the tree and move on to a detailed acquaintance.

Specifications

Appearance

Interface and features of work

It is not often that a camera falls into the hands, taking which, you begin to feel like a Martian. Or vice versa: an earthling in whose hands a Martian instrument fell. And the point here is not so much in the national Japanese flavor, which should still appear behind the name of the camera, but in the philosophy of the company itself. The already fairly familiar Canon, Nikon and even Sony do not cause the kind of confusion that Fuji cameras can cause. For the sake of fairness, it should be noted that their fellow countryman Olympus also sometimes likes to surprise with very non-standard "antics".

So, let me clarify what confused me. Unlike Canon, which, in my opinion, has gone farthest from its origins towards simplicity, Fuji and Olympus, on the contrary, do not strive for it - both, interestingly, are named (if not delving into the history of the name) in honor of the sacred mountains. With a little knowledge of Japanese culture (true, not modern), you can see that the Japanese have never strived for simplicity, and even vice versa. Many Fuji and Olympus cameras that I had in my hands gave the feeling that the creator scooped up a handful of physical controls - buttons, dials, toggle switches - threw them on the camera body with a light hand and left them lying down. Actually, what is this lyrical introduction to? It is to the X-T1 and its ergonomics.

Let's start with the fact that there are more controls than necessary, which is quite rare. And everything would be fine if they were all in accessible places. When you start working with a camera, you console yourself with the thought that the toggle switches will develop and your fingers will grow thinner. But, oddly enough, neither one nor the other happens. Although my fingers are quite thin (as I used to think), the "Fn" and "video" buttons remained practically inaccessible to me, as well as the metering mode toggle switch. However, it is a little easier with him. The presence of two shutter speed dials - rough and precise - also remained a mystery. The style is undoubtedly preserved, and the inclusion of the automatic mode by aligning the marks "A" of the three discs - shutter speed, sensitivity and aperture - does not raise any questions. But the presence of numerous "twists" causes confusion, and after a while you start to get lost in them ...

But after a while everything falls into place - you just need to get used to the "Martian" camera. And it is comfortable to work with it (although the listed hard-to-reach organs remain difficult to access). By the way, the shutter speed dial has to be turned with two fingers even in the positions free from the lock - it fixes the dial only in the “A” position.

Having made his way through the jungle of controls, the traveler meets a new obstacle - the menu. The appearance itself does not particularly scare him. However, the abundance of layers, tabs, and just the number of points creates an image that is far from the brevity and brevity of the hokku. And everything would be fine if not for a lot of abbreviations. Presumably, the menu looked much nicer in Japanese, but Russian words simply do not fit into this format. But let's not exaggerate. For an experienced or just an expert photographer (and for whom else is this camera!) The main points will be quite clear.

You will have to sit with something and even look into the instructions, but in general, everything is not so bad. Of the features, two insignificant points can be distinguished. First, not all modes can shoot in RAW. For example, you cannot shoot in RAW at low (ISO 100) and high (ISO 12800, 25600) sensitivities. Secondly, when walking through the drop-down menus, you need to be careful: such a seemingly obvious action as pressing the back arrow selects and sets the item under the cursor, and to go back without changes, you must press the Back button.

First impressions are the most stormy, so they couldn't just be omitted in the case of such a camera. But the second impressions are already extremely boring: after a few hours of working with the camera, almost all the controls mysteriously fall into place, and their hands find them blindly. It is interesting that in their chaotic arrangement, quite understandable logic and hierarchy begins to emerge. As a result, every other day you use only those that are closer, and only occasionally you climb deeper, while not lacking in anything. Although the inconveniences, to which we have not managed to get used to, will still surface in the text, there are very few of them.

Even after a thorough acquaintance with the camera, the function Fn button still had to be pressed with a fingernail. With the video button, everything turned out to be both easier and more complicated. Since it is practically invisible when you hold the camera in the working position, you have to press it blindly - and control the press on the video recording indicator on the screen for the absence of a tangible tactile response when pressed. Since the button is small enough, the finger hardly feels it. Over time, you seem to get used to it, and it becomes possible to control the force and place of pressing, but at first it turns out through time.

The two adjustment dials located at the front and rear do not cause any particular inconvenience. The dial on the front panel is responsible for fine adjustment of the shutter speed, while the rear dial is for adjusting the aperture on lenses without a corresponding ring. In playback mode, they are responsible for switching and enlarging images, respectively. The rear dial is also responsible for navigating menus, which is not always convenient, especially when using the viewfinder. Although, with a certain skill, you can reconfigure the camera, practically without looking up from the viewfinder.

The information screen of the camera is clear and friendly. There is even nothing to comment on - the information on the display is comprehensive. The sensitivity value here shows the upper limit set in the menu, and only when you half-press the shutter button, it changes to the real one, at which the picture will be taken. The DR400 icon means the dynamic range is set to 400% and the camera will shoot at minimum ISO 800; 200% - at a minimum ISO 400. It was not possible to determine what this parameter affects. Although the manual promises, in fact, HDR mode, we did not notice any visible differences between 100% and 400%.

Fujifilm X-T1 Graphite Silver Edition

September 11, 2014 Fujifilm announces the release of the X-T1 Graphite Silver Edition camera. The novelty differs from the X-T1 (black) not only in a very effective appearance... Due to the updated electronic shutter, the camera is capable of shooting at shutter speeds up to 1/32000 s, which, however, will not interest everyone. There are not so often situations in life when, even with an open aperture, the camera cannot cope with light at ISO 100 and 1/4000 s. But the potential to get into such conditions cannot but warm the soul. In addition, Classic Chrome has been added to the existing filters that simulate films.

An interesting Natural Live View function has appeared in the electronic viewfinder. It turns off all picture adjustments such as contrast and color saturation, making the EVF picture as close to reality as possible. However, while the essence of the function is clear, the meaning remains a mystery. On the other hand, for connoisseurs of optical viewfinders, such an imitation will allow them to get closer to the ideal.

In December, a software update for both cameras is planned, promising small but pleasant improvements in the interface and shooting modes.

Image quality

As it turned out, the camera display is not quite accurate in terms of color rendition and slightly "cools" the colors, so the pictures of the stand came out yellowish, although the white balance on the screen seemed quite acceptable. In addition, the display coverage turned out to be slightly less than 100%, so it turned out to be very difficult to frame the stand “under the bleed”.

As mentioned, RAW shooting is not possible in the extended range, so the results are shown separately in JPEG format.

The graphs show the dependence of the resolution on the light sensitivity under different lighting and noise reduction conditions.

Depending on the shooting conditions, the behavior of the camera changes at times in a very strange way, but all the fluctuations in resolution occur almost around the same value. As you can see from the graphs, RAW behaves most chaotically, while JPEG behavior can be called stable. In addition, an average value of 0.82 lines per pixel for the ISO range of 100-6400 is an excellent result, not every DSLR is capable of producing such a high resolution in such a wide range.

We did not show the extended range of ISO 12800 and 25600 in the graphs in order not to clutter them up. It can be noted that in this range the camera resolution is characterized by an average value of 0.68 lines per pixel, which is also quite good. It is, of course, difficult to call these values ​​workers, especially in terms of artistic photography. However, they are able to capture not the smallest details. In addition, the camera works so accurately that even artistic shots taken with such a sensitivity, in black and white, have a right to life. On the other hand, perfectionists even at ISO 3200-6400 will be able to see the deterioration of the sharpness of small details. But everyone decides the question of the working maximum sensitivity for himself, based on his tasks and habits. We can only praise the camera for very Good work in a fairly wide range of photosensitivity.

Fujinon XF 18-55mm f / 2.8-4 R LM OIS Lens

The lens has two switches - stabilizer and aperture, and three rings - aperture, focus and zoom. All rings, with the exception of the zoom ring, are electronic with infinite travel. The aperture ring only works in the position of the switch marked with the blades.

The graph shows the results obtained well. At medium apertures, the camera shows relatively high resolutions. With open and closed diaphragms, quite natural deterioration is noticeable, but the result is generally quite good.

The average value of the resolution falls naturally with increasing focal length. Nevertheless, the overall picture remains good enough. You can also notice a noticeable scatter of values ​​in the center and at the edge when the aperture is open, which in general is also quite natural.

It can be seen from the graphs that the lens behaves best at 18mm. Further, the maximum resolution value drops. It can also be noted that the lens gives the sharpest picture at f / 10 aperture.

As you can see, the lens has a slight barrel-type distortion that decreases with increasing focal length. No noticeable chromatic aberration is visible.

Stabilization

As is often the case when you try to deliberately shake the camera, imitating the "natural" shake of the hands, the movements for some reason come out smooth, and this is quite enough for the camera to get a sharp enough picture. However, after a certain amount of training, hands with the camera can still be “shaken” in order to try to evaluate the work of the stabilizer. Here you can digress a little by the spoiler and mention that the camera we tested had three lenses: XF 18-55mm, XF 56mm (by the way, it was with this lens that the noise test was carried out) and XF 23mm. The last two will be discussed in relative detail in the second part of the article. Actually, all this means that after the transition from the XF 18-55mm to the unstabilized fixed-mount, the absence of a stabilizer is quite noticeable. But these are just impressions. Let's move on to the numbers. The graph, built according to a technique that has already been temporarily established in our country, makes it clear that the stabilizer allows you to work with 70% confidence at shutter speeds up to 1/10 of a second, which, in general, is a good result.

Shooting speed

You can't blame the camera for slow focusing. It focuses and refocuses quickly enough. Of course, she is still far from SLR cameras in this regard, but she behaves very decently - she thinks only in really difficult situations. However, this parameter is rather difficult to measure with improvised means, so you have to rely only on relative impressions. But you can measure the speed of burst shooting.

The shooting speed measurement technique is extremely simple and straightforward. And, importantly, it is accurate enough. The camera is placed on a laptop or placed on the table next to the smartphone on which the recorder is running. Then the recorder turns on and the camera starts burst shooting for up to two minutes. The resulting sound file is loaded into an audio editor, where the timeline is calculated as an integer number of shutter releases in an integer number of seconds, after which the average number of frames per second can be calculated.

The table shows the average shooting speed for different modes. Unfortunately, we could not test the camera with a UHS-II card due to lack of one, so the tests were carried out with a UHS-I card (SanDisk Extreme SDHC UHS-I 16 GB 45 MB / s). Let's call the first speed the one with which the burst shooting starts. Its limit is the time after which shooting slows down and continues at a second speed. Units of measurement are frames per second and seconds, respectively. The infinity symbol means that the speed has not changed for two minutes.

As we can see, in the RAW + JPEG mode the camera meets the declared characteristics for some time within the measurement error.

Fujifilm continues to consistently develop its X-series mirrorless camera lineup. And today we will introduce you to the top (to date) model called Fujifilm X-T1.

Fujifilm X-T1 Specifications

From a technical point of view, the X-T1 is a slightly improved version of the Fujifilm X-E2 camera, which we already wrote about. There are actually few differences: an electronic viewfinder with a higher magnification (but the same resolution), a dust- and water-resistant body, more controls, a flip-up screen and a slightly higher continuous shooting speed (8 fps versus 7).

Externally, the X-T1 differs markedly from the X-E2: if the second is made in the rangefinder style with an electronic viewfinder in the corner of the camera, then the X-T1 is a "slant" for a classic film SLR. The workmanship of the case is very high, the camera feels like a kind of "monolith" and fits perfectly in the hand. The dimensions of the X-T1 are almost the same as those of the X-E2, but the "body weight" has grown by 90 grams and is 440 g.

Visually, the viewfinder in this model is simply huge, even larger than in the Canon EOS 6D full-frame DSLR. The flip side of the coin is that the eyepiece is slightly offset, so it won't be easy for bespectacled people like me to use the camera. The viewfinder has a very smooth picture and displays 100% of the frame area, and the refresh rate, even in low light, does not drop below 50 Hz.

Due to the central location of the viewfinder on the camera body, there is space on the left for another dial-switch, which is responsible for the ISO sensitivity. Two similar dials located on the right, as before, are responsible for shutter speed and exposure compensation. By the way, have you noticed the round "pimples" in the center of the sensitivity and shutter speed switches? These are unlock buttons. Moreover, if to rotate the sensitivity dial, the button must be pressed in any case, then in the case of shutter speed, it is needed only to switch between manual and automatic modes. The exposure compensation disk does not have such a lock, but in any case it rotates very tightly (apparently, this is done so that it does not accidentally get lost in the bag).

On the same axis with the sensitivity and shutter speed dials, there are switches for the drive mode (single and continuous shooting, bracketing, self-timer, etc.) and exposure metering, respectively. In earlier Fujifilm cameras, these parameters were adjusted through the menu.

There are also changes at the back: the column of keys to the left of the screen has disappeared due to the flip-up screen. Partly the need for them disappeared due to the new controls, partly they were scattered in other places. Finally, there is also a new key that invokes the manual focus assist mode. Menu navigation buttons can be assigned shortcuts for quick access to frequently used functions, and the same is true for the Fn1 and Fn2 buttons located on the front and top of the camera.

The X-T1 has finally fixed the autofocus switch: now the most frequently used modes (manual and single focus) are in the extreme positions. Previously, the single focus was located in the middle, which is why I constantly "flew" past it. By the way, pay attention to the sync terminal noticeable in the same photo for connecting studio flashes.

The flip screen design in the Fujifilm X-T1 is similar to the early Sony NEX: the screen can be flipped up 90 degrees or down 45 degrees. This is more than enough for shooting "from the hip" or, on the contrary, overhead.

There is no built-in flash in the X-T1, but the buyer will find a small external one in the box with the camera (model EF-X8). This flash has no battery compartment and is powered by the camera. It is also controlled very simply: in the lowered position the flash is off, in the raised position it is on.

From the point of view of the menu, we did not find any significant differences from the Fujifilm X-E2.

Camera in operation

It is with a feeling of deep satisfaction that I can report that the X-T1, like the X-E2, boasts quite fast autofocus. The latest Micro 4/3 or Nikon 1 cameras are still far away, but Samsung NX or relatively old Sony NEX models have already managed to catch up. Seriously, during the time that I was communicating with the camera, the autofocus never let me down, that is, there was no such thing that the camera simply did not focus for unknown reasons.

Like other current-generation Fujifilm cameras, the X-T1 is great for shooting older non-autofocus lenses. The user is offered a choice of three types of manual focusing assistance: enlarging the selected area of ​​the frame, focus-picking (highlighting contrasting transitions with color) and Digital Split Image. The last option is the most interesting from the point of view of convenience and speed of manual focusing, while phase-detection AF sensors integrated into the matrix are used.

In addition, Fujifilm cameras allow you to specify the focal length of the non-autofocus lens attached to the camera in the menu. This does not affect the shooting process, but the specified focal length is recorded in EXIF, which allows you to later understand with which lens this or that frame was taken.

Image quality is very simple: the X-T1 uses the familiar 16-megapixel X-Trans II sensor with integrated phase-detection autofocus sensors. Therefore, it comes as no surprise that the X-T1's image quality is completely identical to that of the X-E2. In short: the entire sensitivity range (from ISO 200 to 6400) can be considered a working one, especially if you are ready to tinker a little with adjusting the image parameters in the RAW converter.

Noise level when shooting in JPEG ():

Noise level when shooting in RAW (gallery):

I really liked the dynamic range of the camera. Although overexposures are quite easily "knocked out", the well of shadows is unusually deep and allows you to easily restore useful information without significantly increasing the level of noise. So in the case of shooting scenes that are too contrasting, feel free to set the exposure compensation to minus, and then draw out the shadows in a graphics editor.

I would also like to note that the Fujifilm line of lenses continues to grow with very interesting items. The camera came to my test with an ultra-wide-angle zoom Fujinon XF 10-24mm f / 4 R OIS and a fast portrait lens Fujinon XF 56mm f / 1.2. Both feature excellent image quality even at open apertures, minimal distortion and virtually no chromatic aberration. In my opinion, the Fujinon 56 / 1.2 is so good that you can change the system for the sake of it (provided, of course, that you are interested in this type of lens).

In general, Fujifilm X-T1 shoots something like this (gallery with full-size files):

Like the previous Fujifilm X series cameras, video recording in the X-T1 is implemented purely for show: both the service functions provided by the camera and the quality of the final result are clearly inferior to any competitors, so if you are interested in video, then this camera is not for you.

In the dry residue

Personally, I really liked the Fujifilm X-T1. The camera is positioned as a top-end camera in the lineup, which is confirmed by an excellent viewfinder, as well as a dust and moisture resistant body. In my opinion, there are only two obvious drawbacks: terrible video mode and a minimum shutter speed of 1/4000 second, which, combined with a minimum sensitivity of ISO 200, seriously limits the ability to control depth of field when shooting in good lighting conditions.

If we compare the X-T1 with the X-E2, then the former offers a number of minor improvements: a flip-up screen, a higher magnification viewfinder, slightly more controls, dust and moisture protection. In terms of photo quality and electronics, these cameras are completely identical. At the same time, the difference in cost between the X-T1 and X-E2 kit kits (both with an 18-55 mm f / 2.8-4 lens) is about 8 thousand hryvnia. Whether the changes listed above are worth such a price difference is up to you.

5 reasons to buy Fujifilm X-T1

• excellent photo quality, including at high ISO
• folding screen
• dust and moisture protection
• best-in-class viewfinder
• stylish appearance

1 reason not to buy Fujifilm X-T1

• mediocre video recording quality

Today will be the most correct test of a good camera. Good, because for almost a month I periodically filmed with it, and no one noticed the substitution. I took her to Prague.

I walked with her in Moscow ...

At this time, my faithful Nikon D4s was lonely sad at home. I cheated on him with the Fujifilm X-T1.

So how do you properly test your camera? All professional tests come down to the analysis of technical characteristics, various shooting modes and praising lenses. If you are not a professional photographer, then most of this information is completely useless for you. I always shoot in semi-automatic mode and am very pleased. None of the tests cover the most important characteristics of the camera.

I have compiled a list of the most important characteristics by which all cameras should be tested.

1. Ability to shoot a black cat in a dark room
2. Resistance to children's curiosity
3. Attracting the attention of the opposite sex
4. The place that the camera takes in the suitcase
5. Convenience for the mushroom picker

All other characteristics are secondary. Let's admit to ourselves that if your hands grow out of your ass, then no camera will help you, and if you have talent, then you will shoot well with a matchbox.

So let's start the Fujifilm X-T1 test.

For the first test, I took the cat Martha. Of course, Martha is not entirely black, but she is a cat. Launch Martha into a dark room, set all the settings to the automatic machine and ...

Great ... Shot 23mm with 1.4 aperture. Are you surprised? Yes, there are many interchangeable lenses for Fujifilm X-T1, including fast ones.

Interchangeable high-aperture lenses allow you to safely shoot at night outdoors without a tripod and flash, which is useful when traveling.

Now let's give the camera to the child.

As you can see, the X-T1 has a lot of customization options. Everyone can make a camera unique.

The main thing is to stop in time….

Although, if you give free rein to the child, then sooner or later he will discover the undocumented possibilities of the camera. I wrote a separate post about the effect with a smiley face in more detail.

The X-T1 withstood all the tests and continued to work, no matter what! Neither the sandbox nor the ant farm could disrupt the camera. Unfortunately, I cannot show you any more pictures of the tests as a kid, as the guys from Fuji will no longer give me a camera.

So, the most important characteristic is to attract the attention of the opposite sex. In my case, we will be testing the X-T1 on girls. Most people would be satisfied with a smartphone in conjunction with Instagram, but we buy expensive professional cameras. What for? We can afford it. Why deny yourself the pleasure of having a good camera? And what are the envious glances of friends and colleagues ... Now you can safely go into the smoking room and shock everyone with the number of megapixels and the size of the memory card.

Everyone loves the X-T1. The camera looks really cool. Not like any soap dish, but like an expensive serious camera. Look at her:

All these wheels with numbers, levers, buttons - they won't do this on a bad camera.

Taking Fujifilm X-T1 in hands, in the eyes of others you immediately turn into a serious photographer, men look at you with respect, women - with admiration. Ludka from the supply clothes will no longer turn up her nose and scoff at the fact that you come to work by subway. With such a camera, you can even come to work on a minibus and say mysteriously: “Yes, on a minibus, I'm looking for images there for my work!”. With a camera like this, you can have dirty shoes and a puff sweater because you are a true artist.

And now about the compactness. I considered the Fujifilm X-T1 as a travel replacement for my Nikon d4s. Moreover, this is not a compromise, but a complete replacement. The X-T1 comes with a wide range of interchangeable lenses for all occasions. Here there are portraits, and shirik, and zoom. Everything you need on your trip. Just 3-4 times less than I have now

At some point, I realized that I have only one neck, and I need to take care of it. So if I am traveling light, now I throw it into the X-T1 backpack.

Well, the last test is the convenience of the camera for the mushroom picker. Why a mushroom picker? You take your camera to the forest and it has no room for error. Besides, in the forest or on a hike, every gram counts. Unlike a traveler, a mushroom picker does not have the opportunity to take a break in a cafe, take a taxi, or hire a Sherpa to carry a basket of mushrooms and a camera. Mushroom picker one on one with mushrooms and a camera.

So, I took a shirik into the forest to shoot forest landscapes. In my case, it is 10-24 mm on a cropped matrix. What it is? These are the pictures. There is nowhere to turn in the forest, so a wide angle is important.

Of course, I don't have enough talent for landscape photography, but if your hands grow out of the right place, shoot a masterpiece

Even at dusk in a deep forest, the camera will not let the mushroom picker down!

Now, actually, mushrooms

For mushrooms, I took 56mm with 1.2 aperture.

A great lens for shooting mushroom portraits! In addition, the camera has the ability to upload pictures via Wi-Fi directly to your phone and send your mushroom to Instagram!

So, thanks to the readers, I learned that this is a boletus and you can safely take it. For a mushroom picker, the ability to immediately transfer photos to your phone is very useful! Don't carry your laptop with you, right?

Having spent half a day in the forest with the Fujifilm X-T1, I can say that the camera behaves perfectly. By weight, it is like 2 porcini mushrooms, but there is much more benefit. Is it possible to remove a squirrel or a Christmas tree on a porcini mushroom? No. And on Fuji - you can.

After the forest, we make several portraits of our beloved grandmother

A good test should end up with pros and cons.

Minuses, which I found in 2 weeks of operation:

The battery runs out quickly, you have to carry spare batteries. But this is compared to my Nikon D4es. Fuji's class competitors are even worse. Fujifilm X-T1 350 shots / Olympus E-M1 300-350 shots / Sony Alpha A7 340 shots.
- The optical viewfinder is sorely lacking. But again, this is compared to a full-size DSLR. The electronic viewfinder has a number of advantages (you can immediately see the result of the picture, taking into account the exposure, adjusting the parameters, shooting in the dark, the convenience of manual focusing)
- The camera wakes up for a long time, I would like it faster.

pros

Size and weight.
- A large number of interchangeable optics for all occasions.
- Fits very well in the hand
- The screen rotates, convenient when you need to shoot something from ground level, or raise the camera above your head
- All settings are made by physically switching levers and rotating the drums (or what is it called correctly?), No need to dig into the menu. This is actually very convenient. This is sorely lacking in my large cell.
- Many filters that simulate different films. If you are lazy to post-process your photos, then this will save you.

As you probably know, a couple of months ago I ditched DSLRs entirely. I don't know if it's temporary or not, but currently I'm shooting exclusively with mirrorless digital compacts. Also, you probably know that after trying all the major manufacturers of such cameras (which, of course, only and only Fujifilm, Sony and Olympus belong to which), I opted for Fujifilm. Their top model X-Pro1 has been serving me for a couple of years now, and on my recent trip to the Arctic I had a chance to test a fresh Fujifilm X-T1... As promised, I share my impressions. Traditionally, I want to note that this is by no means a review based on test results, but purely personal, purely subjective impressions of the camera. I should also note that along with the new camera model I got my hands on the first copy of the new lens. Fujifilm XF 18-135 mm f / 3.5-5.6, therefore, the impressions will be described in relation to this pair.

So, it is one thing to walk around the city with a compact camera, and quite another to take it as the main one in expedition conditions. There is a certain risk in this, tk. and such cameras are less protected, work slower, batteries run out faster, and much more on trifles. However, I decided to rely on the X-T1, and for the purity of the experiment I did not take any other camera with me at all, that is, absolutely. Well, apart from a couple of iPhones, of course.

Previously, I have repeatedly been in polar conditions in winter, so it was not scary to travel in summer. As it turned out in vain! For mosquitoes, mosquitoes and gadflies, as you know, can even lift the carcass of a deer into the air, let alone some Moscow photographer ... However, the choice of the carcass that I took with me would still not have affected. To put in conditions, so to put. And so that everything is real, garlic. It will survive, it means it will survive, no, it means no. And if he survives, then I want to understand whether it is convenient to use such a camera for all occasions or not. Well, or at least just - maybe or not.

Running a little ahead, I will immediately answer this question - yes, it is possible! Convenient or not, it will already depend on the creative tasks and style of work, but personally, it turned out to be quite convenient for me. However, there are several nuances that make sense to pay attention to.

Batteries

Realizing well that power is a weak point in the expedition, even in the case of large DSLRs, I took 5 batteries with me. 2 of them are a working kit (one in the camera, the other in the battery pack), and 3 are spare. In fact, spare ones were never useful to me, however, I did not have trips to the tundra for more than 2 days. Each battery, depending on the style of shooting, allows you to take about 400-700 frames, for me personally this is more than enough. In general, heels of quite compact (in comparison, for example, with Canon 1Dx) batteries, completely solve the problem of charging.

Battery pack

An ambiguous accessory. On the one hand, it makes the grip very comfortable (after that you don't even want to hold the camera without a block) and gives additional opportunities in terms of batteries. On the other hand, with such a unit, the camera becomes not much smaller than a DSLR.

Although, still less. And less not only in the physical size of the kit, but also in the size of the batteries, as well as the charger (charging for top-end DSLRs is half a suitcase). But for the convenience of the grip, a certain volume is still needed, and purely tactilely this can hardly be avoided. From this point of view, the size of Fujika seems to me close to optimal. It will be even less comfortable to hold, and more - it will bring us closer to the DSLRs. Although, perhaps, 20-30 percent less could still be done.

Swivel screen

About happiness! Finally Fuji caught up with Olympus and Sonya in this matter. The screen of all modern cameras must be rotatable, period. Not even discussed.

Work speed

Anyone interested in digital compacts knows that speed is their biggest sore point. And no matter what breakthroughs Olympus makes here, all the same, in our time, all these cameras do not work as smartly as we would like. In this regard, the X-T1 is very pleased. Yes, this is not a DSLR yet, but this is another confident step in the right direction! Subjectively, the operating speed relative to the X-Pro1 is felt 20-30% faster. This is due, among other things, to the new processor.

In general, the speed of digital compacts is made up of several criteria. Often, buying such a camera and encountering the feeling of a "brake" people do not understand what is actually the reason for the low speed efficiency. There are several main factors here:

1) Focus speed.

Actually, this is the main criterion for the operation of the camera itself. The focusing speed, in turn, depends on the technological solutions of a particular camera, its brain filling and power, illumination and, of course, on the lens.

2) Flash card speed.

A very important and highly underestimated factor. In short, without the most modern, fastest card, you don't even have to start working with digital compacts. And such cards are very expensive. For example, I bought my ADATA 64 Gb XC I Class 10 a year and a half ago for $ 200. And it was after this purchase that I suddenly realized that in fact everything is much faster than it seemed at first. Now there are probably more modern and faster maps.

3) Shooting speed (after focusing).

The X-T1 delivers 8 frames per second! And this is, to put it mildly, at the level of DSLRs.

In general, the combination of three factors, the impressions of the X-T1 remained extremely positive. Yes, this is not a DSLR yet, but it is already very close to that. And if you consider that for my tasks, in general, the X-Pro1 is quite enough, then the X-T1 is just a gift.

ISO and noise

Honestly, I have not experienced problems with noise at high ISO for a long time. Modern cameras do this job well. For my personal taste, the worst of all are Sony and Olympus, which have “colored peas” instead of pictures on high ISO. Best of all are Canon and Fujifilm, which give a much more plastic image, which can then be overclocked during conversion and bend with curves in processing.

For example, this photo was taken at ISO 6400 and then overclocked by +5 stops when converting.

ISO 6400, 1/370 sec, f / 3.5

An enlarged fragment at 100% scale (hereinafter, no sharp is applied on all presented crops):

ISO 6400, 1/370 sec, f / 3.5

Well, yes, noisy (and as you would like on such an ISO and with such overclocking), but at the same time it is a human picture with a tolerable level of detail. Such a picture may well be printed on a large format, published in a book, etc.

And this is how ISO 200 looks in the sun. Absolutely human, plastic, lively picture. By the way, did you find a mosquito?

ISO 200, 1/350 sec, f / 8.0

An enlarged fragment at 100% scale:

ISO 200, 1/350 sec, f / 8.0

Fujifilm XF 18-135mm Lens

And here we smoothly approach the fly in the ointment. Surely, looking at the previous photo, many of you have already wondered - what for for such a scene was ISO 6400? There is enough light.

Quite, but not quite ... Honestly, I am so used to working with high-aperture lenses that I did not even pay attention to the maximum open aperture of the universal 18-135, which is f / 3.5-5.6. In this case, I was shooting at a wide angle, so the aperture of the camera was set to 3.5.

A small lyrical digression. Having extensive experience in shooting in manual modes, manual sharpness and generally working with fixes, I nevertheless long ago came to work exclusively in automatic modes. It somehow did not occur to me that there might not be enough light despite the fact that there is clearly enough light.

What is f / 3.5 versus, say, f / 2.8 for an 18-55 lens? This is practically 1 stop of exposure, that is, when shooting at 18-55 ISO, it would no longer be more than 3200. And in the case of a 35mm fix with an aperture of f / 1.4, the ISO would already be 3 stops less, that is, 800. And this is a huge one. difference.

I also did not have enough aperture to shoot this shot taken from a helicopter.

ISO 200, 1/100 sec, f / 5.0

I shot as vertically down as possible with zooming in. The camera produced ISO 200, an aperture of f / 5.0 and a shutter speed of 1 / 100sec. For a focal length of about 80 mm, this is already on the verge, and given the vibrations of the helicopter, it is clearly not enough. As a result, all the photos turned out to be a little blurry. Here is a 100% snippet:

ISO 200, 1/100 sec, f / 5.0

Let's be honest to the end - I screwed up myself. Of course, you could go into manual control and raise the ISO. Then photos of the tundra from a helicopter would be useful not only for the Internet, but also for some kind of exhibition (I was already offered, I was forced to refuse precisely because of technical imperfection). But it never occurred to me that lenses are so dark.

By the way, this lens has a very decent stabilizer. It actually works very well, but ... as it turned out, not in vibration conditions. In ordinary life, the stabilizer really significantly neutralizes the lack of aperture. This can be seen in the example of this shot, taken with a maximum zoom of 135 mm at a shutter speed of 1/320. Everything would be fine, but an important point - with a boat swaying on strong waves!

ISO 200, 1/320 sec, f / 5.6

100% crop:

ISO 200, 1/320 sec, f / 5.6

Summary - Fujifilm XF 18-135mm should be used with great care, and primarily for scenes with good lighting. If there is enough light, glass gives a very pleasant result, pattern, bokeh and whatever. Barrels are minimum, vignetting is pleasant. Everything is fine, but only in the sun. As soon as we enter the room, we need to attach something like 35 mm f / 1.4 or on the extreme 18-55 f / 2.8-4.0. Well, in conditions of vibration, manually control the love.

What else can I say about this camera.

Ergonomics

Anton Martynov wrote in his Fujifilm X-T1 review that the camera has ergonomic flaws. I partially agree with this opinion - indeed, after the X-Pro1 it is not always possible to immediately find the buttons on the rear panel. Maybe it's a matter of habit, I don't know.

On the other hand, in this chamber, Fuji honed their wheels to near perfection. Now they are in their places, do not spin spontaneously, and in general all key parameters (shutter speed, aperture, ISO, shooting and focusing modes) are controlled mechanically (and not from the menu or software). I am delighted!

Viewfinder

The viewfinder that is optical is actually digital. Works great, fast, no lags. But lately I've been mainly working on the screen, so for me this is not a matter of principle.

Dust and moisture protection

I don’t know how protected the camera is, but I filmed in the rain or in the splashes on the boat, there were no problems. Everything works, there are no failures.

The camera has other goodies, like Wi-Fi controlled via the iPhone, but for me they are not important (although I tested it - a nice thing).

And finally, a few photos from this expedition, taken with the Fujifilm X-T1 + Fujifilm XF 18-135 mm f / 3.5-5.6 kit. And then - my personal summary conclusion.

ISO 200, 1/350 sec, f / 7.1

ISO 200, 1/150 sec, f / 4.0

ISO 200, 1/125 sec, f / 4.0

ISO 2000, 1/100 sec, f / 3.5

ISO 6400, 1/45 sec, f / 4.2

ISO 200, 1/240 sec, f / 5.6

ISO 6400, 1/34 sec, f / 3.5

ISO 200, 1/140 sec, f / 5.6

ISO 6400, 1/34 sec, f / 3.5

ISO 6400, 1/52 sec, f / 3.6

ISO 200, 1/400 sec, f / 5.6

ISO 200, 1/150 sec, f / 5.6

All photos from this trip can be viewed in previous publications.