Small homemade planes. What is needed for the successful construction of a light aircraft. Cash costs

In this publication, I want to talk about one of the most popular designs among DIYers around the world. The design of this aircraft will celebrate its 85th anniversary next year, but these aircraft continue to fly, and many amateur designers continue to choose this aircraft for their own construction.
So, Pietenpol Air Camper, the plane and its designer.

Many who have been to the EAA Museum in Oshkosh probably did not even notice this small wooden hangar facing the playground. Even during the airshow, it is often closed, and in the open it attracts a little attention. In this photo, too, the entrance to the hangar is blocked by the French Sirocco aircraft.

And nevertheless, one of the outstanding amateur designers Bernard H. Pietenpol, who is called in America only "Father Of Home built Aircraft", worked in this hangar.

In 1928, a self-taught Minnesota engineer Bernard H. Pietenpol (born 1902) built and flew his own aircraft. It was an all-wood single-seat monoplane with plywood skin and linen fenders. The wheels of the chassis were taken from a motorcycle, the frame is welded from water pipes. The designer carved the screw with his own hand from black walnut, it was rotated by a four-cylinder water-cooled Ace engine. The plane flew and flew very well, during the first two months they flew over fifty hours.
Bernard Ptenpole was no stranger to flying, he began to fly in the early 1920s, first on the Curtiss Jenny, and in 1923 he designed and built his first Sky Scout with a Sky Scout Ford T. Ptenpole studied the design of the Curtiss aircraft Jenny, it seemed unnecessarily difficult to him, and he set himself the task of designing and building an aircraft that would have acceptable flight characteristics, using a standard car engine, could be built from cheap and affordable materials, with a minimum of metalworking and welding. The new Pittenpole aircraft, over the course of five years, underwent several modifications, it became a two-seater, the chassis changed, the Ace engine gave way to the reliable and affordable Ford A car engine with a standard 78 "x 42" propeller.

1. The final design of the aircraft, which by that time received the name Air Camper, was completed in 1934. Since 1933, Pittenpole tried to produce his aircraft in kits, a small factory in Cherry Grove, Minnesota made metal parts and rebuilt engines, another factory did turning and milling work, and also made wood parts.

Air Camper with Ford A engine in Pittenpole hangar. You can see well the design of the engine mount, center section and chassis.

2. Ford engine A close-up.

Pithenpole made no secret of his designs, in 1932 he published blueprints for his aircraft (Air Camper and Sky Scout) in Modern Mechanics magazine. Aviation enthusiasts all over the world have appreciated the ease of manufacture and reliability of these successful machines. Air Camper aircraft were built and continue to be built by amateur designers all over the world to this day.

3. An aircraft built by Pittenpole itself in the main building of the EAA Museum. 1933 year.

4. And on this Ford A engine, the aircraft builder managed to install a turbocharger. The aircraft was built in 2000.

During the war, Pithenpole worked as a flight instructor, and also repaired televisions (!). After the war, the designer returned to the aviation business and continued to build aircraft. In the early sixties, he adapted a light and reliable air-cooled engine from a Chevrolet Corvair for the Air Camper. With this engine, the aircraft received a new breath, despite the emergence of new types and designs, aviation enthusiasts continued to build the Pithenpole aircraft. From 1928 to 1966, Pittenpole himself built more than twenty aircraft.

Pithenpole was an active participant in the 1953 EAA-sponsored air shows in Oshkosh. He had his own wooden hangar in Oshkosh, which the heirs after his death in 1984 donated to the EAA Museum.

5. A plane with a Chevrolet Corvair engine in the Pittenpole hangar. You can consider a simple frame made of pipes, which was sheathed with plywood.

6. The Corvair 100 engine modernized for aviation needs in the main building of the EAA Museum.

7. A stand made of plywood with the stages of the life of Bernard Pittenpole, installed in a hangar named after him.

8. Aircraft built in 1967 at the Florida Air Museum in Lakeland. This aircraft is powered by the Continental A65 aircraft engine.

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10. The builder of this aircraft even put on it a mascot nasal figurine.

11. Interesting Air Camper with A65 engine at Sun "n-fun 2009.

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14. It turns out that it is also for sale.

15. Quite low price for pokatushki on this type.

16. Machine built in 2004 on spoked wheels.

17. Aircraft built in 2002.

18. Pittenpole built in 2004.

19.2008, with Continental engine.

20. Airplane with Corvair engine.

21. And this is almost an authentic device, but with the latest Rotec radial engine.

22. Air Camper aircraft were also built in our country. It is not known whether the designers of the two parasols from Zlatoust located at Monino used American drawings, but the authors of this aircraft claim that they built their aircraft strictly according to Pittenpole's drawings. But from Soviet materials and with a Soviet level of finishing.
I was able to photograph this aircraft during testing in Vatulino in the winter of 2009.

23. The plane is equipped with a Suzuki car engine and a three-bladed propeller from a motor-hang glider.

24. It can be seen that the device is quite light.

25. Instrument panels in both cabins.

26. That evening, unfortunately, the plane did not fly, there was not enough propeller thrust, later it was taken away from Vatulino, I do not know the further fate of this aircraft.

27.

At present, the design of the Air Camper certainly looks like a distant anachronism, but for those who like to have a vintage for reasonable money, this is the very thing, and I think that this aircraft will live up to its centenary.

It is considered one of the easiest to fly, therefore it is suitable for a novice pilot-modeller and can be used as a trainer, that is, as the first model for flight training.

To make a model of an aircraft, the following materials are required:
Smooth ceiling tiles or laminate underlay, 3-5 mm thick.
Ceiling glue is Titan or any of its analogs, a 5-10 ml disposable syringe.
Scotch different colors, paper glue.
A piece of thin but rigid wire, for example, a piano string, wire for a semiautomatic welding machine, diameter D = 0.8-1mm.
A level base for working with a knife, for example, a plexiglass sheet, a laminate board.

Required spare parts:
Receiver and transmitter for 4 or more commands.
Electric motor for an airplane for 1100 rpm or more.
Servos for 5-9 grams 4 pcs.
LiPo battery 12 volt 1000-2000 mAh. 1 PC.
Propeller size 8040-9060.

Required tools:
Modeler's knife or clerical knife with spare blades.
Metal ruler 50-100 cm.
Sandpaper, sanding block (stone).

Item 1. Preparation for work.
First you need to find it on the Internet, or take it here ( (downloads: 4801)) drawings of the aircraft model itself, then print them on a printer in A4 sheet format.

Lay out the resulting printouts on a flat surface in accordance with the serial numbers, as a result, you should get a connected image of the finished elements of the aircraft.

Now you need to glue the necessary sheets together. For the correct gluing of the sheets, so as not to violate the dimensions and geometry of the future aircraft, it is necessary to cut off the extra edges on each sheet of the drawing, for the convenience of determining the cut lines, special border crosses are drawn in the corners, it remains only to decide which side we will trim, connect the two corner crosses with a line and get cutting line.

Thus, we glue all the crushed elements of the drawing. This should result in seven sheets glued and two single sheets (for drawing Cessna182).

Point 2. Cutting blanks.

If the part is simple, with a large number of straight lines, then it is enough to mark all the corners of the part with punctures of the needle, then remove the stencil paper and apply a ruler from the puncture point to another point, make a cut with the tip of a knife, then shift the ruler to the next points, and so on until you complete complete cutting out of the part.

Item 3. Gluing of the aircraft body, assembly.
You can start by gluing double partitions, that is, consisting of several identical parts glued together for added strength.
Such as this fuselage baffle.

The cut out parts are not always straight enough, this can be easily corrected with sandpaper.

In the process of building an aircraft, it is important to keep track of such things as the size of your battery in time (it may be larger than planned in the drawing) and accordingly independently adjust the dimensions of the compartment if necessary, constantly check the perpendicularity of the parts to be glued, do it with a square or a ruler.

To install the elevator wing, you need to make a slot in the body and slide the wing into place.

Introduction

To create my first plane, I was pushed by the banal lack of money and the desire to learn to fly. Since the Chinese plane presented to me by my girlfriend was repaired an infinite number of times and, in the end, became unrepairable, and there was not enough money to buy a new one, it was decided to build my own. Moreover, on the forum of the store modelsworld.ru, I was advised to do just that. Initially, I tried to copy the fuselage of my Chinese aircraft, but building an aircraft requires at least some basic knowledge. Therefore, it is better to have a manual already written by a more experienced designer at hand. And, while crawling on the Internet in search of a suitable aircraft, I came across an article "ParkFlyer 2 or our answer Piper" y and Cessn "e" by Evgeny Rybkin (link). A very successful option for me: a high-winged plane, which means it is easier and more predictable to control; I am also glad that the aircraft is domestic, since our aircraft are practically not represented in this class.

I read the article, and although there is a slightly different manufacturing method, I decided to build according to this guide. True, if we compare both options, then only the name of the aircraft will be common - after all, Evgeny Rybkin's description is more suitable for those who already have experience in building models and have the necessary materials and tools. In a way, my example looks like "building an airplane in unfavorable conditions." Therefore, externally, the models are different (Yak-12 Yevgeny Rybkin - on the left, My version of the Yak-12 - on the right):

The construction of my plane was carried out more intuitively than science: no calculations were made, the engine was not selected, but what was available was stuck in. Affects the remoteness of the city in which I live - to the only model store I know of more than 100 km, and in our hardware stores there is a whole problem to buy a normal ceiling and good glue. Therefore, the construction process was constantly hampered by the lack of the necessary materials and parts. As a result, something was removed from the crashed Chinese plane, something (and this is the most part) was invented from improvised material.

Since this is my first self-built aircraft, there were some mistakes. Therefore, in the process of creating an aircraft, it was necessary to look for different options for solving problems, then some corrections and upgrades appeared in the process. Therefore, it makes sense to read the article to the end, so as not to repeat my mistakes.

I would like to add that this article should not be taken as a guide to action or instructions for building an airplane, as I, for example, perceived the article by E. Rybkin. It just describes the process of making a newbie, in the field of aircraft construction, a parkflyer, practically from improvised means. But, if you are building your first plane, and you do not have the opportunity to get hold of branded parts, then, I hope, some points will be useful to you. In general, go for it, and you will succeed!

Materials and tools

On this plane, in principle, not so much material took me. Considering that I redid some of the nodes and parts several times, trying to achieve a more accurate match, the amount of materials wasted is minimal. I wasted the most time, because because of work I could only take care of the plane in the evenings.

The article by E. Rybkin describes the manufacture of an aircraft from PS-60 foam. There, a special machine is used for cutting it, where a heated nichrome (perhaps I am mistaken in the name) wire plays the role of a knife. Due to the lack of this device, I decided to make the model entirely from the ceiling. I didn't have more accessible material at that time. I used a ceiling from different manufacturers, different colors, but the same parameters: 500 * 500 mm, the same density, 3 mm thick and must necessarily look like a "box from" Doshirak "". It took me nine sheets for the plane. When buying a ceiling tile from a store, buy a bottle of ceiling tile adhesive. I used Master glue. As it turned out later, this is an analogue of the well-known Titan glue. In general, ask the seller, he will tell you.

Then we go to the stationery store and buy wooden rulers 30 cm and 50 cm there. I used the 30 cm long rulers as ribs in the wing and for the stiffness of the fuselage. As practice has shown, for the stiffness of the fuselage, it is better to use a 50 cm ruler - they are thicker. In the same place, I bought a colored tape to cover the model. Due to the limited assortment, I had to take white, blue and orange colors. I was looking for black scotch tape to imitate glasses, but I could not find it. But our stationery store sells knitting needles. I took four pieces of 2 mm each and two pieces of 3 mm each. In principle, you can do without 3 mm spokes - I used them as a spacer between the wing and the fuselage, but the spokes are quite heavy, after several dashing turns they fell out, and I had to replace them with plastic tubes. If you do not have a ready-made motor frame, as in my case, then you will also need a sheet of plywood 3 mm thick and approximately 200 * 200 mm in size.

The tools I used: stationery knife, with a replaceable blade, scissors, a helium pen, an awl and Phillips screwdriver with a diameter of 3 mm, a set of pins and, of course, a ruler.

"Filling"

A lot of calculations are given in E. Rybkin's article. And, based on these calculations, a motorcycle installation and other electronic filling are selected. This is the right approach when building a serious airplane. Perhaps the next time I build, I will use this method. At the same time, I proceeded from what I had in stock. And I had the following: Futaba 6EXA equipment with a receiver, two Chinese motors, with rear and front mounts, a 30A regulator, two servos weighing 8 g and a force of 1.3 kg, hogs taken from a Chinese aircraft, two propellers with dimensions 10 * 7 and 8 * 4 with a cooker and a Chinese battery of 8.4 volts and a capacity of 650mAh.

Drawing

I downloaded the drawings in the same place, in the article by E. Rybkin, and printed the sheets on a printer.

Gluing is very simple - there are marks on the sheets that you just need to combine to get the correct lines without shifting the line. There are two ways to transfer an image to the ceiling. The first is to fix the sheet on the ceiling with pins and pierce it along the contour with a thin awl. Then, for clarity, you can connect the holes obtained on the ceiling with a pencil, or you can simply cut it with a sharp knife. On straight sections, it is enough to make several punctures, and on curves the more often there are punctures, the more accurate the transfer will be. The second method is suitable if the drawing is printed on inkjet printer... To transfer, slightly moisten the tile, attach a drawing and iron it on a flat surface with a warm iron. The image should remain on the foam. The main thing is not to overdo it with the temperature and not melt the ceiling.

When placing a drawing, it is worth remembering that ceiling tiles have different bending strengths. This can be easily verified by bending the sheet in different directions. This applies to the wing, since my left and right sides were placed diagonally, from one corner to the other. This made it possible to avoid gluing the fuselage from several sheets of the ceiling.

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the top and bottom of the plane are given in halves, and they are of different sizes. For the correct tracing of the lines, you must first draw one half, and then make a mirror image of it. I divided the upper part into two segments - the front one goes from the nose of the car to the leading edge of the wing; back from end to trailing edge.

The wing profiles, as well as the inner frames in the drawing, turned out to be smaller than we need. Therefore, you will have to make them yourself.

Fuselage

After the bottom and sides of the fuselage have been cut out, mark on them where the frames will be located. In order not to be too smart, I transferred almost all the locations of the frames from the drawing.

Except for "A" and "B". I decided to use these two frames as a motor mount. Since I had two motors and with different mounts, it was decided to make the motor mount universal for motors with front and rear mountings, reducing the distance between the frames so that both motors could fit. Subsequently, this layout was very useful - the originally installed motor was too weak.

The motor frame was made of two plywood plates 3mm thick and two pieces of a ruler. I also added two corners for strength and adjusting the inclination of the plates at the bottom at the base. In frame "B" or in the rear wall of the motor mount, do not forget to cut holes for the output of the motor wires to the regulator. The whole structure was glued with epoxy resin. Initially, I wanted to make a "curved" frame, so that later I would not bother with bevels down and to the right. But on the forum site modelsworld.ru I was dissuaded in time and advised to tilt the motor by placing washers under the base. Looking ahead, I will say that the structure turned out to be very strong - after several strong frontal impacts on the ground, the front wall burst at the engine mount. The second option, when the frame itself is purchased, and I will not consider the foam base here, since this option has not yet passed flight tests. And there is nothing complicated there: a foam base is made, reinforced with rulers for a ready-made motor mount.

You also need to think about where and how the "filling" will be located: servos, battery compartment, receiver and regulator.

For the regulator, I made a small podium from the same packing foam, making a depression in it slightly thicker than the regulator itself, where I glued two strips of double-sided tape. This was done for more comfortable work with wires when connecting and for more safety of the regulator.

Immediately after the podium, on the bottom, I have a load-bearing element for the chassis, made again from the line. The chassis will be screwed into it.

For the battery compartment, I used sticks of packing foam matched to the size of the battery and a ruler as frame "B" (before gluing, it is better to wrap the line with tape a couple of times, otherwise the battery will break it if it falls). The compartment turned out to be universal - it successfully accommodates both the Ni-Cd battery and the Li-Po. Moreover, there is enough space to adjust the balancing by moving the battery. I also had a receiver there.

Immediately behind the battery compartment in front of the D frame, I have placed the rudder and elevator servos. For them, a foam podium was also made, in which niches for cars were cut out. On the places into which the fastening screws will be screwed, I glued strips from the ruler.

Then he glued the frames "D" and "E", having previously cut out grooves in them for reinforcing the sides of the fuselage. Also in the frame "D" a hole was cut for the rudder rods. In the photo above, the hole is in the form of a circle, but I had to abandon this shape and make it square and cut off the top. That is, it turned out like an inverted letter "P". This design turned out to be more practical.

When planning the plane, I thought to make the wings removable, inserted on the spokes on the left and right sides, respectively. But, having already made this structure, I understood it weak sides... First, you would have to think about access to the internal compartments. Secondly, on impact, most likely, the attachment points of the wings would simply be ripped out of the fuselage. Therefore, I decided to make the wing mount classic for such models - removable, with elastic bands.

In the picture, the glued rulers are what I did initially. The subsequent wing cutout is shown in red; blue - power elements from the rulers; yellow - the approximate location of the holes for the sticks on which the elastic bands will be attached. The neckline will depend on the shape of the wing. Of course, it is better to make such a cut right away, when it is possible to attach both halves to each other, so that it turns out the same on both sides. Basically, I removed the upper part already on the glued and covered fuselage - it turned out not bad. But all the same, it is advisable to glue the bottom and sides after the wing is made and the seats in the sides are cut out for it.

Now, having already flown on finished model, came to the conclusion that the rear power element is not necessary, since there are quite enough frames and adhesive tape at the back. But if you are worried about strength, you can do it.

Since the bottom of the side is not straight, I glued it in the following way: I first glued the central part, fixing the position of the bottom, side and frames with pins; after the glue dries, I also glued the nose part; and finally glued the tail. I glued the motor mount to the sides with epoxy resin.

After gluing, I got the following:

In the lower part, in front of the "B" frame, on both sides, I glued two plastic spare parts from the spokes onto the epoxy, with the holes outward. They come with knitting needles and are clothed at the ends. The wing struts will be inserted into these holes.

In the very corner of the back of the case, I placed a piece of Styrofoam. The rudder will "stick" into it. The upper part of the fuselage consists of two halves: bow and stern. After the transition to the construction of an aircraft with wing fasteners on elastic bands, there was no need to make the nose part with an approach to the wing. The photo shows a dotted line where you need to make a bleed.

Before installing the rear upper part, it is necessary to place the steering gears and rods (bowdens) inside the fuselage. Since my rudder thrust came out exactly through the rear fuselage cover, I had to make a small hole for the bowden in it (the cover). Another hole was made in the rear of the port side for the elevator thrust.

The fuselage was covered with white tape. I did not meet any difficulties here. But making the appliques took some time.

To simulate the cockpit windows, I made templates from cardboard. Then he simply applied them to blue tape, outlined and cut off with a clerical knife.

The blue stripe was made from a strip of duct tape. I glued the scotch tape directly to the fuselage, marked it out, ran it along the marking with a knife and removed the excess. But it was a big mistake - to cut off the blue stripe in place, on the fuselage. After hitting the ground, the ceiling burst exactly in the place where the cuts took place, although he tried to touch the foam as little as possible when cutting.

The inscriptions were printed on a printer, cut off and pasted on transparent tape.

Elevators and rudders

In the manufacture of the steering wheels themselves, there were no difficulties. Problems appeared during their installation - it was required to achieve an even installation so that there would be no problems during flights.

When making the elevator, it must be borne in mind that the jumper connecting the two halves is rather small and requires reinforcement. I immediately did not pay attention to this, for which I was punished: in flight this jumper was torn, despite the tightness of the tape, and the PB worked like an aileron. The result is several barrels and earth. You can strengthen it with a thin strip of a ruler glued to the glue, and also slightly increase the size of this area itself. There are also more practical options for amplification than I used. For example, carbon pipes. After strengthening, cover with tape. And one more important point: do not heat up after covering! The scotch tape is already pretty strong, and if you start heating, the stabilizer will most likely lead, as it happened in my case. I had to make a new one. The same goes for the rudder. The elevator was leveled using struts made of thin spokes. There were no problems when gluing into the fuselage, so I see no point in describing in detail.

But there were problems with the rudder - I didn't want to be installed exactly. For gluing into the fuselage, I used rod ends glued to the spokes.

But this was not enough, and it was necessary to install props from the rulers. In the future, he hid the props, as well as the reinforcement of the elevator, under white tape so that they would not be conspicuous.

Wings

The most problematic part for me was the wing. I redid it several times, trying to achieve the same results on both wings. They were different all the time. Lack of experience affected.

An important point when placing a wing drawing on a sheet of a ceiling tile will be the choice of the direction of bending of the ceiling itself, as already mentioned above. When marking the wing, we will need to make its specular reflection with a margin slightly larger than the front height of the rib. That is, we outline one half, retreat the desired distance (about 20 mm), turn over the wing pattern and outline the mirror image. In my case, the indent was about 15 mm and, still, it was not enough.

A ruler was used as the material for the ribs. Initially, I made a rib with an irregular shape with a sharp forehead, but then, having received advice on the forum, I corrected myself. In general, it is advisable to make a profile, as in the drawing, but with dimensions suitable for our wing. On the wing, four ribs turned out: three on the wide part and one in the middle, between the end of the wide part and the end of the wing.

In the first three ribs, at the same distance, two holes were made for the spokes, which were originally conceived as devices for attaching the wing to the fuselage. But even if you make a top-mount wing, I think that the spokes can be left as they will stiffen the wing and prevent it from breaking.

When everything is ready, proceed to fold the wing. There are many ways to bend ceilings on the Internet. The bottom line is the same everywhere - you need to warm it up. I was heating with a heater. And here the main thing is not to rush. Choose a temperature at which it is not very hot itself, and the sheet bends as it should. Already on the next wings, I did this: I took two wooden 50 cm rulers, applied on both sides and bent (pressed) with rulers, and not with my hands. This was done so that there would be no dents from the fingers. Fixed when gluing with clothespins and even paper clips. When gluing, when fixing, it is also better to use a flat substrate in the form of rulers.

I realized this only when dents from clothespins and paper clips remained on the wing left to dry until the morning.

It so happened that on one wing, the terminal chord turned out to be 5-7 mm less than on the other. Having tortured several sheets of the ceiling, I decided to make it easier. I measured the missing piece, cut it out of the waste and glued it. After covering with tape, the differences were not visible.

Next, we make the profile of the inner wall of the wing from the ruler. It is enough just to attach the wing vertically to a sheet of paper and trace along the contour, and then transfer the resulting contour to the ruler. On this profile, I got two rows of holes - the first for the exit of the spokes from the wing, and the second, slightly lower and slightly to the side under the entrance of the spokes from the opposite wing. When the profiles are cut, we glue them to the ends of the wing, and after the glue has dried, insert the needles into the holes. It turns out like this:

Then we cut out a rectangular piece of the ceiling, with an approximate overlap on the wing of 30-50 mm. Placing the workpiece evenly on the wing (as in the photo), glue the lower part. After the glue dries, bend it in the shape of the wing. We try on the resulting wing on the fuselage, mark the width and remove unnecessary sections with a knife.

There was even an idea to increase the wing area in this way, but since the plane flew, it was decided to leave everything as it is.

The wing cover was made with white tape with an overlap of 3-5 mm. I made the ends of the wings orange. The inscriptions are printed on laser printer, cut and glued on transparent tape. I did not resort to using an iron to smooth out irregularities, since a slight overkill in temperature threatens with deformation.

I used thick knitting needles for the braces. But either I made a mistake in the calculations, or the spokes turned out to be a heavy material, in flight, after several maneuvers, they fell out even after gluing. Perhaps it makes sense to find an easier option. For example, as E. Rybkin suggests, you can use tubes from cotton candy or pick up an analogue.

For the installation of the struts, I used the juice tubes in the tetra packs, since they can easily be used to achieve the desired angle of installation of the struts. Glued into the wing with epoxy.

Chassis

For a long time I could not make a chassis, as I could not find the appropriate material. But in the end, as always, the stationery store helped - aluminum rulers, this is what we need. Wheels used from a Chinese aircraft, dimension 5.

It will be safer to make a structure from one ruler, but I did not find a ruler of a suitable length, so I had to use two 15 cm each. I cut off the excess and bent it according to the drawing. Initially, I planned to attach it to the fuselage by gluing, but the very first tests (I just threw it on the floor) showed that such a structure was too flimsy. I had to combine the gluing and drill holes for the fastening screws.

Chassis pattern shape

I installed the chassis after covering it. Before gluing, I used the method described by E. Rybkin: the part that was going to be glued was wrapped with thread, loop to loop and then smeared with glue.

Hood

Initially, when making the hood, I wanted to follow the example described in the article by E. Rybkin, but after several attempts I found this method difficult for me. As a result, I decided to make the hood from the ceiling strip. I cut out a rectangle 70mm wide and about 300mm long, attached it to the nose of the aircraft and wrapped it. I glued the bottom with tape. An important point here is the correct choice of the direction of bending of the ceiling. In my case, there was no heating and other methods that are used to shape the ceiling. I wanted to use a propeller from a processor cooler as a motor front, but I haven't found a suitable size yet. This would help solve the ventilation problem in the engine compartment. So far, I have limited myself to a sticker of blinds printed on a printer from a drawing.

Flying

The first sorties were without a chassis, without a hood, with a plywood engine and spokes as struts. Impatience made us leave for the field in a rather tangible gusty wind.

Checking, centering. For the load, I glue a few five-ruble coins on the nose. I start it up from my hand without a motor - the flight is not far, but smooth, with a slight roll. I decide to fly with a motor. The first flight is lumpy. The plane did not want to fly - at full throttle it smoothly descended into the grass. Affected by the use of an unknown motor. After the plane "landed" next to the pipe, disguised in the grass, he decided not to tempt fate and went home to remodel the motorcycle. It is good that the motor mount was originally made universal, so the alteration did not take much time. I also decided to put Li-Po instead of the standard battery.

Back in the field. The wind has intensified even more, but this does not stop, although the thought "can it wait?" arises. Check and take off again. Now the picture is different - the plane is flying, gaining altitude, making uncertain turns, but all this is somehow strange: the nose is lifted up against the wind - the tail is lowered. In the wind, the picture is the opposite - the nose is down, the tail is up. Several times, when cornering, I was caught up in gusts. It didn’t work out once, and didn’t lightly touch the ground. A crack appeared under the blue stripe. But the experiments do not stop there - you need to find out what is wrong with the plane. Until it turned out: during one of the flights, the plane suddenly made two barrels and "softly" sat down in a puddle. They approached, and immediately everything became clear - the very same jumper connecting the halves of the elevator broke.

From the injuries of that day: a dented nose, a crack under the strip, a torn-off knuckle-brace. A little. We are going home for repairs.

The next morning was calm and the decision to go appeared immediately. To be honest, I was very worried: after the first flights it seemed that the plane was assembled poorly and somewhere there were a lot of shortcomings and miscalculations. Ground check and start. And, lo and behold! The plane is flying right! Climb, turn, another, I reduce the gas to almost half, but it still flies! There is no limit to delight! The only thing that spoiled the mood a little - when turning, you have to be very careful with the rolls: you gape a little and the plane is rapidly losing altitude. But it is very easy to catch, although it adds adrenaline. It is enough to put the rudder in the center, and take the elevator a little on yourself, and the plane goes into horizontal flight. True, I have not enough experience and in the end I stuck it in the ground. This time, the damage was more significant: the motor mount burst at the bolt attachment points, the nose was even more crumpled, and the ruler holding the battery broke.

Conclusion

Despite the recent damage, I am very pleased with the plane, although he does not pull on the role of a coach, as was initially conceived. This was my first independent step into radio aviation. During the construction of this aircraft, I learned a lot, which is no doubt useful for me when building other aircraft.

I would also like to add that testing and fine-tuning continues.

I would like to say a huge thank you to my mother, girlfriend Masha for putting up with all the mess that I made at home; Vadik for providing details and ideas; members of the forum forum.modelsworld.ru, especially Barbus "for his advice.

Specification:

Length - 685 mm
> wingspan - 960 mm
> weight - 500 g

motor - E-Sky Ek5-0003B 900KV
> regulator - Rich-ESC - 30A
> servo - E-Sky Ek2-0500 weight 8g. Force 1.3 kg
> propeller - 10 * 7

Hardware - Futaba 6EXA 40Mhz

Author - Evgeny Valerievich Zhukov. (Terranozavr)
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To build my own home-made plane - a biplane - has been my dream since childhood. However, I was able to implement it not so long ago, although I paved the way into the sky in military aviation, and then on a delta-flying. Then he built an airplane. But the lack of experience and knowledge in this matter gave a corresponding result - the plane never took off.

Failure not only discouraged the desire to build aircraft, but cooled the ardor thoroughly - a lot of time and effort was spent. And to revive this desire helped, in general, the case when it became possible to inexpensively purchase some parts from the decommissioned An-2 aircraft, known more popularly under the name "Corn".

And I bought only ailerons with trims and flaps. But from them it was already possible to make wings for a light biplane aircraft. Well, the wing is almost half an aircraft! Why did you decide to build a biplane? Because the area of ​​the ailerons was not enough for the monoplane. But for a biplane - it was enough, and the wings from the An-2 ailerons even shortened a little.

Ailerons stand only on the lower wing. They are made of twin aileron trimmers of the same An-2 aircraft and are suspended on the wing on conventional piano loops. To increase the efficiency of aircraft control along the trailing edge of the ailerons, wooden (pine) triangular slats 10 mm high are glued on top and covered with strips of sheathing fabric.

The biplane aircraft was conceived as a training aircraft, and according to the classification it belongs to ultralight vehicles (ultralights). By design, a homemade biplane is a single-seat single-post biplane with a tricycle landing gear with a tail-steered wheel.

I could not find a prototype, and therefore I decided to design and build according to the classical scheme and, as motorists say, without additional options, that is, in the simplest version with an open cockpit. The upper wing of the "Grasshopper" is raised above the fuselage (like a parasol) and is fixed slightly in front of the cockpit on a support made of duralumin pipes (from the rods of the An-2 ailerons) in the form of an inclined pyramid.

The wing is detachable, it consists of two consoles, the joint between which is covered by an overlay. Wing set - metal (duralumin), lining - linen with enamel impregnation. The wing tips and root parts of the wing consoles are also sheathed with a thin duralumin sheet. The upper wing consoles are additionally reinforced with struts extending from the inter-wing struts attachment points to the lower fuselage spars.

The air pressure receiver is fixed at a distance of 650 mm from the end of the left upper wing console. The lower wing consoles are also detachable, attached to the lower fuselage spars (on the sides of the cockpit). The gaps between the root part and the fuselage are covered with linen (soaked in enamel) fairings, which are attached to the consoles with Velcro bands - burdocks.

The installation angle of the upper wing is 2 degrees, the lower wing is 0. The transverse V at the upper wing is 0, and at the lower one - 2 degrees. The sweep angle of the upper wing is 4 degrees, and the lower wing is 5 degrees.

The lower and upper consoles of each wing are interconnected by struts made, like the struts, of duralumin pipes from the control rods of the An-2 aircraft. The fuselage frame of a homemade biplane is truss, welded from steel thin-walled (1.2 mm) pipes with an outer diameter of 18 mm.

Its basis is four spars: two upper and two lower. On the sides, a pair of spars (one upper and one lower) are connected by an equal number and equally spaced struts and struts and form two symmetrical trusses.

Pairs of upper and lower spars are connected by cross members and jibs, but their number and location at the top and bottom often do not match. Where the location of the cross members and struts coincide, they form a frame. Forming arcs are welded on top of the front rectangular frames.

The rest (rear) fuselage frames are triangular, isosceles. The frame is covered with unbleached calico, which is then impregnated with homemade "enamel" - celluloid dissolved in acetone. This coating has proven itself well among amateur aircraft designers.

The front part of the biplane fuselage (up to the cockpit) on the left side in flight is sheathed with thin plastic panels. The panels are removable for easy ground access to the controls in the cab and under the engine. The bottom of the fuselage is made of duralumin sheet 1 mm thick. The tail unit of the aircraft - biplane - is classic. All its elements are flat.

The keel, stabilizer, rudder and rudder frames are welded from thin-walled steel pipes with a diameter of 16 mm. The linen sheathing is sewn to the details of the frames, and the seams are additionally glued with strips of the same enamel-impregnated coarse calico fabric. The stabilizer consists of two halves that are attached to the keel.

To do this, an M10 hairpin is passed over the fuselage through the keel near the leading edge, and a tubular axis with a diameter of 14 mm at the trailing edge. Lugs with sector grooves are welded to the root rods of the stabilizer halves, which serve to set the horizontal tail at the required angle, depending on the pilot's weight.

Each half is put on a stud with an eyelet and secured with a nut, and the trailing edge tube is attached to the axle and is attracted to the keel by a brace made of steel wire with a diameter of 4 mm. From the editor. To prevent spontaneous rotation of the stabilizer in flight, it is advisable to make several holes for the hairpin instead of a sector groove in the ears.

Now on the biplane plane there is a propeller-driven installation with an engine from the Ufa Engine Plant UMZ 440-02 (the plant equips the Lynx snowmobiles with such motors) with a planetary gearbox and a two-blade propeller.

431 cm3 engine with 40 hp. with air-cooled speed up to 6000 rpm, two-cylinder, two-stroke, with separate lubrication, runs on gasoline, starting from AI-76. Carburetor - K68R Air cooling system - although self-made, but effective.

It is made according to the same scheme as in the Walter-Minor aircraft engines: with a truncated cone-shaped air intake and deflectors on the cylinders. Previously, the biplane plane was equipped with a modernized engine from the outboard motor "Whirlwind" with a capacity of only 30 hp. and V-belt transmission (gear ratio 2.5). But the plane flew confidently with them.

But the pulling two-blade monoblock (made of pine glue) homemade screw with a diameter of 1400 mm and a pitch of 800 mm has not yet changed, although I plan to replace it with a more suitable one. A planetary gearbox with a gear ratio of 2.22 ... the new engine got from some foreign car.

The muffler for the engine is made of a ten-liter cylinder of a foam fire extinguisher. The fuel tank with a capacity of 17 liters is from the tank of an old washing machine - it is made of stainless steel. Installed behind the dashboard. The hood is made of thin-sheet duralumin.

It has on the sides of the grill for the outlet of heated air and on the right there is also a hatch with a cover for the outlet of the cord with a handle - they start the engine. The propeller-driven installation on a homemade biplane is suspended on a simple motor frame in the form of two braces with struts, the rear ends of which are fixed on the racks of the front frame-frame of the fuselage frame. The electrical equipment of the aircraft is 12-volt.

The main landing gear legs are welded from pieces of steel pipe with a diameter of 30 mm, and their struts - from a pipe with a diameter of 22 mm. The shock absorber is a rubber cord wound around the front tubes of the struts and the trapezoid of the fuselage frame. The wheels of the main landing gear are non-braking with a diameter of 360 mm - from a mini-mock, they have reinforced hubs. The rear support has a spring-type shock absorber and a steering wheel with a diameter of 80 mm (from an aviation stepladder).

Aileron and elevator control - hard, from the aircraft control stick through rods made of duralumin tubes; rudder and tail wheel - cable, from the pedals. The construction of the aircraft was completed in 2004, and the pilot E.V. Yakovlev tested it.

The biplane aircraft passed the technical commission. Made quite long flights in a circle around the airfield. A fuel reserve of 17 liters is enough for about an hour and a half of flight, taking into account the aeronautical reserve. Two Evgenias gave me very useful advice and consultations during the construction of the aircraft: Sherstnev and Yakovlev, for which I am very grateful to them.

Homemade biplane "Grasshopper": 1 - air propeller(two-bladed, monoblock. diameter 1400.1 = 800); 2- muffler; 3 - cockpit fairing; 4- hood; 5 - brace of the upper wing console (2 pcs.); 6- rack (2 pcs.); 7 - pylon of the upper wing; 8- transparent visor; 9 - fuselage; 10 keel; 11 - steering wheel; 12 - tail support; 13 - tail steering wheel; 14-main landing gear (2 pcs.); 15 - main wheel (2 pcs.); 16 - upper wing right console; 17-left upper wing console; 18 - the right console of the lower wing; 19-left lower wing console; 20-air pressure receiver; 21 - overlay for the joint of the upper wing consoles; 22 - brace for stabilizer and keel (2 pcs.); 23 - engine hood with air intake; 24 - gas baffle plate; 25 - stabilizer (2 pcs.); 26 - elevator (2 pcs.); 27-aileron (2 pcs.)

Steel welded frame of the biplane fuselage: 1-upper spar (pipe with a diameter of 18x1, 2 pcs.); 2- lower side members (pipe with a diameter of 18x1, 2 pcs.); 3 - support of the aircraft control stick; 4-spine beam (2 pcs.); 5- - quadrangular frame (pipe with a diameter of 18, 3 pcs.); 6- shaping arc of the first and third frames (pipe with a diameter of 18x1, 2 pcs.); 7 - struts and braces (pipe with a diameter of 18x1, according to the drawing); 8- lugs and lugs for fastening and suspension of structural elements (as required); 9 - trapezoid of fastening with a rubber cord shock absorber of the main landing gear (pipe with a diameter of 18x1); 10-triangular tail frames (tube diameter 18x1, 4 pcs.)

Angles of installation of wing consoles (a - upper wing; b - lower wing): 1 - transverse V; 2-swept wings; 3-angle of installation

Homemade biplane motor mount: I - spar (steel pipe 30x30x2.2 pcs.); 2-spar extension (pipe with a diameter of 22.2 pcs.); 3 - cross member (steel sheet s4); 4 - silent blocks (4 pcs.); 5-eye for fastening the brace (steel sheet s4,2 pcs.); 6 - support bow of the hood (steel wire with a diameter of 8); 7 brace (pipe with a diameter of 22, 2 pcs.)

The main landing gear of the biplane: 1 -wheel (diameter 360, from a mini-mock); 2- wheel hub; .3 - main stand (steel pipe with a diameter of 30); 4 - main brace (steel pipe with a diameter of 22); 5 - shock absorber (rubber band with a diameter of 12); 6 - travel stop of the main rack (cable with a diameter of 3); 7 - trapezoid for mounting the shock absorber (element of the fuselage truss); 8- fuselage truss; 9 additional landing gear (steel rough with a diameter of 22); 10- capture of the shock absorber (pipe with a diameter of 22); 11 - additional brace (steel pipe with a diameter of 22); 12 uprights connection (steel pipe with a diameter of 22)

Instrument gloss (at the bottom, the rudder and tail wheel control pedals on the trapezoid and the rubber borehole shock absorber of the main landing gear are clearly visible): 1 - carburetor throttle control knob; 2 - horizontal speed indicator; 3 - variometer; 4 - screw for fastening the dashboard (3 pcs.); 5 - direction indicator and slip; 6-light signaling engine failure; 7 - ignition switch; 8-cylinder head temperature sensor; 9 - rudder control pedals

On the right side of the hood - a window for the air filter of the carburetor engines and the engine starting device

The UM Z 440-02 engine from the Lynx snowmobile blended well with the contours of the fuselage and provided the aircraft with good flight data

Before tackling the question of how to build an airplane, another major question must be answered. Depending on the correct answer, you can immediately tell how successful the entire project will be. The main question is, what is the purpose of the whole project? What kind of aircraft and why you need to build.

Model selection

Firstly, it is worth noting right away that it is not entirely realistic to build an airplane, as other craftsmen do. The thing is that each person has an individual style of piloting, because of which it is impossible to rely on someone else's experience when choosing a model. Secondly, many novice designers are eager to create after they see in the sky just quite beautiful and graceful models. Relying only on the outside is extremely bad. The main criterion for choosing a model should be the purpose of its construction and future use, and not the aesthetic component.

Choosing the right model is also important because it can only be used for the purposes for which it is intended. Let's say building an airplane as a means of air tourism is one thing. But after its completion and operation, you can find that a person is much closer to a usual flight to a picnic somewhere in the mountains, for example, and this will require a completely different model. All this suggests that before moving on to any practical part, it is necessary to fully consider and clearly define for what purposes the aircraft will be used.

Naturally, before moving on to construction, it is necessary to carry out a few more preparatory work. It is necessary to conduct a complete analysis of the design. If someone has already implemented such a design, then it is worth contacting this master and inquiring about the success of the aircraft. It is also important to remember that if a model is chosen in which parts and assemblies will be of an outdated type, then purchasing them and arranging delivery if necessary is much more difficult and expensive. Details for models that are in demand at this time will be more affordable.

Time spent

How to build an airplane? Moving on to the practical part of this issue, it is very important to note that this process is very lengthy. It will take a huge amount of time and effort, and therefore you need to be sure that these two components are in abundance before starting to buy parts and other things.

Experts recommend breaking up such a laborious activity as building an airplane into a large number of small tasks. In this case, constant progress in manufacturing will be visible. Each task will take much more time to complete, and each successful completion of the work will mean the approach of the main goal. If you do not break this voluminous task into small parts, then at some point it may seem that there has been stagnation, progress has stopped. Because of this, many people also give up the idea of ​​assembling an airplane with their own hands.

If the process has been correctly broken down into parts, then a week will have to allocate from 15 to 20 hours to complete the tasks. With such a time investment, it will be possible to build an aircraft within an acceptable time frame. If you spend less time per week, then the process can drag on for a huge period of time.

Place to work

Naturally, for such work it is necessary to have a suitable place. However, it should be noted that size is not critical in this case.

A light single-engine aircraft, for example, can be built in a basement, trailer, shipping container, etc. A double garage would be a great place. In many cases, even a single garage is enough, but this is provided that there is a separate place where it will be possible to store ready-made aircraft components such as wings and other parts. When considering how to build an airplane yourself, many believe that just a city hangar, for example, is a suitable place. In fact, this is far from the case. First, few people live close enough to such a building. Secondly, aircraft hangars are places where there is often a lack of light. In summer, it is much hotter in such buildings than even outside, and in winter, on the contrary, it is colder than outside.

Another important remark of specialists and simply those who have already dealt with the question of how to make a flying plane is the arrangement of the workplace. It is recommended to spend money on the purchase of all the necessary things that will make the work more convenient and comfortable. You can take care of a simple climate control system, get a workplace that will fit your height, lay rubber carpets on the floor, etc. High-quality, complete illumination of the entire workplace is essential. All this will have to spend a certain amount of material resources, but when working on such a serious project, they will pay for themselves with interest. In other words, we can say that everything you need should always be at hand, then the construction will be much easier.

Cash costs

How much does it cost to build an airplane? Naturally, after setting the goal, making a decision on the model of the aircraft, after choosing the place and allocating time, the next question is precisely the financial part of the project.

It will not be possible to give an unambiguous answer to the question about the cost of the aircraft, since all models are different, which means that materials, quality and quantity are very different. We can only say that the average spending is from $ 50,000 to $ 65,000 (about 3-4 million rubles). However, the real amount can be either much higher or much lower. Building an airplane is a fairly simple phrase that requires a serious approach not only to the practical part, but also to the financial one. It will be easiest to consider this action as a loan repayment. In other words, it is necessary to estimate in advance the total cost of the project, break it down into parts, after which it will be possible to spend the planned amount of money every month on the purchase of the necessary parts, tools, etc.

One more important factor- this is the understanding that it is not necessary to install on the plane what is not needed for the flight. The simplest example is lanterns for flying at night. If such walks are not planned, then there is no point in buying lighting. That is, correctly set goals will help to save a significant amount of Money... You can save on the installation of instruments if they are not needed for the flight. The construction of aircraft requires the mandatory installation of the propeller. There are constant step and constant speed models. The first model costs about three times less than the second, but at the same time it is not so much inferior to the constant speed propeller in flight efficiency.

The acquisition of knowledge

Building an airplane with your own hands is a laborious and time-consuming task, but it is not at all as difficult as it seems at first glance. Many novice craftsmen who would like to try their hand think that they do not know how to paint, rivet and cook. In fact, learning all these skills is quite simple, it only takes a little time.

It is important here to view the problem in this vein. A self-built home plane is a mechanical device with a minimum set of electrics, as well as a complete absence of complex hydraulic parts. All this can be studied and assembled by yourself.

For example, what is the engine on the plane? The most standard engine for a motor consists of the same structural parts as a motorcycle or boat. These are the simplest and most standard models and are perfect for building your first homemade aircraft. What follows is the practical part of the assembly. Riveting is a fairly simple process that can be mastered in literally one day. As for working with a welding machine, everything is also simple here, you just have to spend more time on training in order to welds had good performance and were fairly flat. As for any work with wood, it is used in everyday life quite often, and therefore the technique of its processing, as well as the tools for performing all the necessary operations, are not difficult to master and acquire.

Common samples

One of the most common aircraft designs is a single-seat, lightweight, strut-braced monoplane with a high wing and pulling propeller. This model of a homemade aircraft first began to appear back in 1920. Since then, the scheme, design, etc. have remained practically unchanged. The finished sample today is considered one of the most tested, reliable and constructively tested. It is because of all these advantages, as well as because of the simplicity of the aircraft drawings, that it is almost an ideal option for DIY construction, especially for a novice master. Per a long period operation and assembly of such aircraft they acquired specific traits... They are distinguished by such design features as a wooden two-spar wing, a steel aircraft fuselage welded type, linen sheathing, pyramidal chassis, enclosed cab with car door.

Further, it is worth noting that there is a small version of this type of aircraft that was used in the 1920s and 1930s. The type of aircraft was called "parasol". This model was a high wing, which had a wing mounted on struts and struts above the fuselage of the aircraft. This kind of vysokoplan is found in the current amateur aircraft industry. However, when compared with the usual standard model, the "parasol" is used much less often, since from a constructive point of view it is much more difficult to manufacture such an apparatus, and in terms of its aerodynamic characteristics it is inferior to a standard aircraft. In addition, in terms of operation, they are also worse, and access to the cab of such a unit is quite difficult, which leads to a difficult use of the emergency method of leaving the cab.

Details of simple aircraft

Some design features these models.

An ordinary high-wing aircraft with the name "Leningradets" has the following characteristics.

The engine for such a light single-seat aircraft has a power of 50 hp, and the model is called "Zündapp". The wing area of ​​the finished model should be equal to 9.43 m 2. Takeoff weight should not exceed 380 kg. This is very important, especially when choosing a pilot's seat. The mass of an empty apparatus is usually about 260 kg. The maximum speed that an aircraft can develop is 150 km / h, and the rate of climb at the ground is 2.6 m / s. The maximum flight duration is 8 hours.

For comparison, "parasols" are worth considering. In this case, an analysis of the model with the name "Kid" will be presented.

The engine is installed on the LK-2 model, the power of which is 30 hp, which already makes it less powerful than the standard model. The wing area is also reduced to 7.8 m 2. The takeoff weight of this aircraft is only 220 kg, which includes the pilot's seat and the pilot himself, weight power plant, fuselage and other structural elements. Despite the fact that the take-off weight is significantly less than that of the "Leningradets", the maximum speed is only 130 km / h.

Manufacturing of aircraft models

One of the main advantages of such models is that it is not difficult to control the aircraft, as experienced pilots already do, since the control itself is quite simple. This is especially noticeable in cases where the specific wing loading does not exceed 30-40 kg / m 2. In addition, vysokoplans differ in that they have excellent takeoff and landing characteristics, they are stable. In addition, the cab is designed in such a way that it provides an optimal view of what is happening below. In other words, you simply cannot find a more optimal model for self-construction.

It is necessary to consider in more detail one of the most successful models - the high-wing, which was designed by V. Frolov.

The wing for such an aircraft was made of materials such as pine and plywood, the fuselage for the aircraft was made of steel pipes that were connected by welding. All structural elements of the aircraft were made completely covered with canvas using classical technology in the aircraft industry. The wheels for the chassis were large enough. This was done in order to be able to take off from unpaved and unprepared sites without any problems. As a power unit, that is, an engine, a 32-horsepower engine based on the MT-8 was used, It was equipped with such elements as a gearbox and a large-diameter propeller. The take-off weight of the aircraft with this design and engine was 270 kg, the flight balance was 30% of the MAR. With all these parameters, the specific wing loading was 28 kg / m 2. It has already been said that it is much easier to fly an aircraft as experienced pilots if the load does not exceed 30-40 kg / m 2. The maximum speed of the aircraft was 130 km / h, and its landing speed was 50 km / h.

PMK-3 aircraft model

In the city of Zhukovsk near Moscow, the PMK-3 aircraft was created, which now can also be assembled independently. The aircraft differed from the usual ones in that it had a peculiar structure of the nose of the fuselage, as well as a fairly low landing gear. This aircraft model was designed according to the strut-braced high-wing design with a closed cockpit. On the left side of the fuselage, an entrance was provided for the pilot. In order to achieve the desired centering, it was necessary to mix the left wing a little back. This is very important to remember when assembling such a model with your own hands. The general structure of the aircraft is all-wood, covered with canvas. Wing type - single-spar, with pine shelves.

The base of the fuselage for this model was made up of three spars. Because of this design, the finished fuselage had a triangular cross-section. An engine with a capacity of 30 hp was chosen as the main power unit. The engine type is a liquid-cooled "Whirlwind" outboard boat motor. With the correct design of the aircraft, the radiator will protrude slightly from the starboard side of the fuselage.

It is worth saying a little about the fact that it is possible to build aircraft with a pusher type of propeller, but it is very important to remember that in this case the thrust force of the apparatus will be lost, as well as lift wing. Because of these two features, it is important to consider the advisability of installing such a screw in each a separate case, based on the goal that the master pursues when creating the aircraft. However, it will be fair to say that there were inventors who, when independently building an aircraft with such a propeller, creatively approaching the solution of this problem, were able to eliminate such shortcomings and operate the aircraft without them.

"KIT-set"

How to make an airplane easy? This question has become more and more pertinent lately. In general, it is worth noting that the growth in the number of people who want to build an aircraft with their own hands is due to the distribution of "KIT kits". This is a kit that includes all the necessary parts to assemble an aircraft of the selected model. In this case, you still have to put your hands on the assembly, but such a set helps to skip the stage of selecting elements, fitting to size, etc. With such kits, the assembly of the aircraft turns into a kind of assembly of the constructor.

Another advantage of the "KIT-kit" is that it will be cheaper than assembling all the elements from scratch. Today there are three ways to get your own flight unit. The first is the purchase of a ready-made product, the second is the "KIT-set", and the third is the assembly from scratch. Buying a set in this case is a mid-range option for the price. If we talk about complexity, then it is much easier to assemble an airplane from ready-made and fitted parts than from scratch yourself.

To summarize, we can say the following. Firstly, building an airplane at the present time with your own hands is quite a real activity, but it requires a lot of time and money. If there are no welding and riveting skills, then they will also have to be mastered in order to successfully complete the work. In order to successfully assemble an aircraft, it is imperative to have drawings available, as well as an assembly diagram, in which each stage will be clearly presented. If you don’t want to do all this, you can purchase the "KIT-set", which will simplify the task and reduce it to the assembly of a kind of constructor.